1965 Dateline T-480

Most pre-1969 models with calendar complications were part of the Dateline series.  There were A-models and T-models, depending on if they had Accumatic movements or Thin-o-matic movements.

The 1965 Dateline T-480 was a Thin-o-matic model with a date complication.  It was produced through 1969.

As you can see in the catalog snip, the T-480 has a 10K yellow gold filled case.  It came on a bracelet or a strap.  What you can't see in the catalog ad is the watch is very yellow overall, as even the dial is a golden color.

I recently received a T-480 project watch and it had it's original JB Champion bracelet.  Unlike most bracelets, this model has a two-piece bracelet, sort of like a metal strap.  It was a little "clunky" inside, as if something is rattling around inside.

The case is a one-piece design and in the shot below you can also see the clasp for joining the two bracelet ends.

Opening the watch, the source of the sound is obvious.  The oscillating weight has come free of the movement.  This is an odd failure, the screw that holds the weight on is still attached to the center of the weight.  The weight has broken off.

This movement uses an ETA-based movement called the Hamilton 624.  It's the calendar version of the 623 movement that is also used in some Thin-o-matics without dates.

The framework that enables to rotor to spin and wind the watch is attached with two screws.  I'll remove those to lift off the framework.

With the dial and hands removed you can see this movement is similar to the 694A movement that is used in the A-series of Datelines.  However this 624 is a little different, for example, the date index lever on the right, currently engaging the date wheel at the number 21.  It's also different in that the date wheel is golden in color.

I'll strip the parts off the front of the manipulate and then flip it over to remove the parts from the back.

The framework is now off and there's a large screw head to remove the remaining center portion of the rotor.

I will see if I can press the two parts of the rotor back together.  I'll need to pull out one of my staking sets.

The center of the rotor is a tight fit, so a few taps to a stake should set it back in place.

I need to choose a stake that will fit the recess in the center of the weight.

A few tap, tap, taps, sets the two parts back together.  Hopefully it will stay the way.

Looks like it worked.

All the parts are cleaned and dried.

The reassembled movement is ticking away with good motion.  It's off to the timer to find out how well it's working.

I didn't wind the watch very much so that explains the low amplitude.  The beat error isn't too bad but it's easy to adjust on this movement, so I'll give it a quick tweak.

It doesn't take much of a tweak to bring the two lines more close together.  That brought the amplitude up a little too.

There are two springs on the front of the movement that could easily fly off, never to be seen again.  So I'll reassemble the front of the movement inside my light tent.  That way I can find the parts if they happen to disappear.  This tent has saved me countless hours on my hands and knees looking for things.

It's a little blurry but all the parts back together.

The dial goes back on and then the hands are installed at 12:00 midnight so the date changes at the proper time.  With everything else cleaned and polished, this watch looks like it just left the showroom floor.

1951 Stuart

Someday I will get around to figuring out which of the oldest Hamilton wrist watches I haven't laid hands on yet.  I feel like I've made a very sizable dent in the 1930's and 1940's models but there are still a few I have yet to find.  It's always fun to locate a new model from this era.

One of the less common models I hadn't found until recently is a 1951 Stuart.  I don't know if I'd call it rare.  It could be that it hides in plain sight, because it looks a lot like a bunch of other models.  It was made for three years; 1951, 52 and 53.

The Stuart came in a 14K yellow gold filled case.  Being 14K gold filled, it has the 19 jewel 14/0 sized 982 movement.  If you happen upon a Stuart with the 19 jewel 12/0 size 753 movement, it's a Stuart B, probably from 1953 or late 1952.  They are indistinguishable from the outside.

The dial on the Stuart is a two tone white / butler finish with solid 18K gold numerals and markers.

As I mentioned above, I recently came upon a Stuart and I was pleasantly surprised to see that I hadn't already covered the model.  I think the majority of the models that I have left to find are automatics and Thinline models - but there are still quite a few missing models lurking about.

Anyway, my project watch arrived in non-running condition.  I could wind and wind and wind it - a sure sign that the mainspring is likely broken.  Of course, buying a non-running watch is always risky.  Even if you suspect the mainspring is broken, that doesn't mean the rest is in good shape.

From the outside the watch looks very promising.

This type of arched crystal is called a cylinder.   Cylinders are great to have on gold filled cases as they can protect the bezel from wear caused by shirt sleeves.  This one is a bit chewed up looking - a testament to the beating a watch can take while on the wrist.  It's done it's job well though, the rest of the case looks good.

The case back has a couple of minor scratches and a little polishing will make them disappear.

Without the crystal blocking the view, the dial looks very presentable.  There is some spotting around the perimeter but that's all blocked by the case.  This dial has all the signs that it's original and has not been refinished.  If it was refinished, it was done perfectly.

The movement looks very good.  In fact, it's surprising bright and shiny.

The case back makes it easy to identify the model.  I only see one watchmaker's mark inside.  I wonder if the code means it last saw a watchmaker in April 1983?

Opening up the barrel, I can see it has a blue mainspring inside.  I'd replace it anyway with a white alloy spring but you can't tell that it's broken in this view.

Now you can though.  You can also see that it's "set" and would need to be replaced even if it wasn't broken.

I'll get the new glass crystal ready for installation while the movement is in the cleaner.

Everything is cleaned and dried.  Time for reassembly.

A new white alloy mainspring is ready to be installed.  You have to put it in correctly though... does the coil go clockwise or counter clockwise?  I can never remember (but I could lust look at the picture of the original mainspring installed in the barrel to find out).  I'll just remove it from it's holder and rewind it for insertion - that way I know it's correct.

The reassembled movement is ticking away with good motion.  The 14/0 movements can be finicky and it's easy to accidentally drop the balance cock off the side of the movement - thus ruining the hairspring.  So I'm always glad to see it come back to life when I install the balance.

Nothing wrong with this performance.  It doesn't get much better than this.

A new crystal and a period-correct strap make this Stuart look like it just left the showroom floor.  It's a small watch by today's standards and is perfect for a woman who like vintage watches.

This strap is even a "short" which means my wife might like it.  I have found that giving the occasional watch to my bride is a good strategy for being able to buy additional projects.  That's a good tip for you new collectors out there who are running out of hiding places for your watches.

1959 Sea-Cap

Waterproof watches didn't really arrive on scene until the 1950's.  Some of the WWII military watches started the trend, thanks to gaskets in the stem tube and under the back cover.  Then later in the 1940's the CLD models introduced gaskets around crystals too.

Hamilton tried a lot of different approaches to sealing watches and they marketed them as "weatherproof" and added an asterisk with the caveat that seals and gaskets needed to be intact.

One of the models with an unusual case design is the 1959 Sea-Cap.  It was produced for three years.

The Sea-Cap came in a two-piece stainless steel case on a matching bracelet.  In 1959 the bracelet had a leather insert.  However, for the final two years of production the bracelet was changed.  In the 1961 catalog, the model was "sold out".

The Sea-Cap came with a white or black dial.  The numerals on the dial are a very unique font, unlike any other models that I'm familiar with.

Under the dial you will find a Swiss-made Hamilton 671 movement based on an ETA grade.  It looks a lot like a manual version of the 672 Automatic, but without the rotor.

I recently received a black-dialed project watch and it was in decent enough shape but the dial has turned a deep brown over the passage of time.  There's a lot dust inside and there's a bit of a rattle inside from the movement and dial being a little loose.

I really don't like the design of the Sea-Cap case and I don't think the designers did either, as there aren't that many models that use this style of case... maybe only the Sea-Cap, in fact.  The back snaps on and off but it can be very finicky to close.

One of the reasons the case is finicky is it has a wide gasket that goes over the case back.  It also has a two-piece stem, so it's a little reminiscent of the CLD models like the 1953 Croydon.

Once the movement is lifted out of the way, you might think this model was called the Stainless Steel, as the case material is marked similar to where the model name is often stamped.

The 671 movement is fairly clean but actually has a feel of sticky grime to it.

Everything is cleaned and dried.  I'll take the time to relume the dial and hands since the existing lume came off in the cleaner.

Reassembling the movement is straightforward and just like a 672 but without the extra automatic framework added on the back.

It's running nicely as well.

The most challenging part of reassembling this watch is putting it back together without the movement and dial rattling.  There's a reflector ring that goes on top of the dial and it should be held down by the crystal.  I think the reflector ring on this watch may be a replacement and it's not quite right.  I found that if I reinstalled it upside down it would hold the dial in place and another reflector ring on top of it sandwiches it all together.  With a new crystal it now looks good and it no longer rattles.  I paired it with a stainless steel mesh strap that goes nicely with it, in my opinion.