My post on the Norman made me think about several other "micro-men's" models from the 1940's that are so small, that it's a wonder they were good sellers during their time.
Most of these diminutive models utilize 14/0-sized movements. Take for example, the Elliott.
However, the 8/0 sized movements are represented too. I think the smallest round watch I've ever come across is the 1949 Todd.
The Todd featured Hamilton's "new" 18 jewel, central sweep second movement, the 748. When introduced, the model came in a 10K yellow gold filled case with a choice of a luminous dial or a black enamel numeral dial.
However, by 1951 (it's last year of production) the Todd was also available in a 10K white gold filled case and an Applied Gold Numeral (and Dot) dial was available with either yellow numerals and dots or rhodium plated solid gold numerals and dots (for the white case).
Another interesting bit of trivia with the Todd is the variety of hands. The black numeral dial used a style of hands called "leaf". The luminous dial used a style often called "military" and the AGN dial used "baton" hands. They all used the same style second hand with an arrow point on the extreme end and a whale fin on the center end.
I think the Todd is a nice looking watch with it's fluted lugs and clean dial. The dial is no larger than the 8/0 sized 748 underneath it and it's very compactly packaged into the case. The strap is 14mm wide (whereas most of the time it's 16mm wide or wider) - so just based on the proportions, you'd never guess the Todd was as tiny as it truly is.
As example, check out the Todd next to the Secometer that was produced the prior year. The Secometer utilized the larger 6/0 sized 987S movement. It's a fairly small watch by today's standards but typical for a vintage watch.
Here's a white gold filled example with the applied gold numeral dial and a yellow Todd with the luminous pattern as well.
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Sunday, August 4, 2013
Saturday, August 3, 2013
1946 Norman
During the 1940's Hamilton transitioned away from it's larger 6/0 sized movements and towards models with the smaller 14/0 sized movements or the new 8/0 sized movements. As a result, watches also got smaller. In fact, there are several men's models that are tiny by today's standards. Maybe that was the fashion after WWII - but by the mid 1950's watches started to get a bit larger again.
I think the Norman is easily confused with the 1941 Martin - which was also available in 1948. Both watches are square shaped with rounded lugs. The Martin is much larger though.
The Norman came in a 14K gold filled case. At this point in time, solid gold watches with 14/0 sized movements got the 19 jewel 982M medallion movement. 14K gold filled cased models got the 19 jewel 982 movement and 10K gold filled models got the 17 jewel version, the 980.
Although the catalogs only show the dial as a sterling silver butler finished version with solid 18K solid gold numerals and dots, I have also seen black dialed versions as well as a version with black numerals on a gilded dial.
I recently purchased a Norman with the black numeral / gild dial. You don't see it very often and it looked like it was in decent shape but in need of some TLC - just the way I like them. As you can see, the crystal is very scratched up.
With the bezel removed, you can see the dial is in pretty good shape. The 12 and the line at 3 look a little iffy to me and I suspect this might be an old refinish. Refinished dials can be a big deal for some makes (like Omega) but they're not a concern with vintage Hamiltons. Getting dials redone was often a part of the overhaul process and I bet there are lots of "original dials" out there that were actually refinished at least once in the past 70 years. As long as it's done correctly, a good refinished dial is preferable to an ugly original, generally speaking.
Flipping the watch over, the movement is a little dirty and in need of cleaning. However, if you look closely, it's a 980 movement. So this movement doesn't belong in a Norman - if you're a purist. Dating the watch by the serial number, the movement was made in 1941 - too early for the Norman. I suspect something happened to the original movement and this 980 was an easy and cheap solution.
Fortunately I have a number of spare 982's, so I'll just drop a correct movement in place and this Norman will be back to it's proper set up. I could use a spare 980, anyway.
Once I removed the hands and dial, when I flipped it over I saw some numbers scratched in - that's a sure sign that it has been refinished. So my hunch was confirmed.
My "new 982" movement was already serviced and ready to roll. As you can see on my timer it is running spot on with great vigor.
And here it is, all back together and paired with a genuine Hamilton vintage watch strap and a new glass crystal. Too bad it's too small for me. I hope my wife likes it!
And here's an example of a Norman with it's original and correct applied gold numeral and dot dial.
One of Hamiltons deceivingly small watches is the 1946 Norman. I'm sure there are many folks who have purchased this watch on-line only to realize that it's quite small, even by vintage watch standards.
The Norman was produced for six years.
I think the Norman is easily confused with the 1941 Martin - which was also available in 1948. Both watches are square shaped with rounded lugs. The Martin is much larger though.
The Norman came in a 14K gold filled case. At this point in time, solid gold watches with 14/0 sized movements got the 19 jewel 982M medallion movement. 14K gold filled cased models got the 19 jewel 982 movement and 10K gold filled models got the 17 jewel version, the 980.
Although the catalogs only show the dial as a sterling silver butler finished version with solid 18K solid gold numerals and dots, I have also seen black dialed versions as well as a version with black numerals on a gilded dial.
I recently purchased a Norman with the black numeral / gild dial. You don't see it very often and it looked like it was in decent shape but in need of some TLC - just the way I like them. As you can see, the crystal is very scratched up.
With the bezel removed, you can see the dial is in pretty good shape. The 12 and the line at 3 look a little iffy to me and I suspect this might be an old refinish. Refinished dials can be a big deal for some makes (like Omega) but they're not a concern with vintage Hamiltons. Getting dials redone was often a part of the overhaul process and I bet there are lots of "original dials" out there that were actually refinished at least once in the past 70 years. As long as it's done correctly, a good refinished dial is preferable to an ugly original, generally speaking.
Flipping the watch over, the movement is a little dirty and in need of cleaning. However, if you look closely, it's a 980 movement. So this movement doesn't belong in a Norman - if you're a purist. Dating the watch by the serial number, the movement was made in 1941 - too early for the Norman. I suspect something happened to the original movement and this 980 was an easy and cheap solution.
Fortunately I have a number of spare 982's, so I'll just drop a correct movement in place and this Norman will be back to it's proper set up. I could use a spare 980, anyway.
Once I removed the hands and dial, when I flipped it over I saw some numbers scratched in - that's a sure sign that it has been refinished. So my hunch was confirmed.
My "new 982" movement was already serviced and ready to roll. As you can see on my timer it is running spot on with great vigor.
And here it is, all back together and paired with a genuine Hamilton vintage watch strap and a new glass crystal. Too bad it's too small for me. I hope my wife likes it!
And here's an example of a Norman with it's original and correct applied gold numeral and dot dial.
Tuesday, July 30, 2013
1949 Clinton
Hamilton first introduced stainless steel in watches with the Lexington in 1941. Other manufactures offered watches with steel alloyed case backs before Hamilton but Hamilton's quality-oriented lineup typically matched case backs to case bezels and didn't cut costs by substituting a less expensive material.
However, stainless steel does have it's advantages - first and foremost is durability.
In 1949 Hamilton introduced another two all stainless models - the Raymon and the Clinton.
The Clinton was produced for 4 years. It's the second model to bear the name. There was an earlier Clinton (aka Greely) that was introduced in 1931 but wasn't shown in catalogs.
There are actually a variety of Clintons out there.. all four have sterling silver dials. One dial has rhodium plated numerals and dots (to appear silver) on a silver butler-finished dial. Two all-numeral dials have solid gold applied numerals that are rhodium plated or black painted and came on black finish or a silver butler finish, respectively. There was also a luminous dial with glow in the dark hands and numerals.
I have never seen the black figured dial with matching black hands... I think that might be the rarest variety.
Behind the dial is Hamiltons 8/0 sized, 17 jewel 747 movement, which was introduced in 1947.
Although stainless steel is extremely durable, I have found that you often see Clintons for sale with missing lugs. I guess the weld that held the curved lugs to the case could fail over time. It can be repaired though.
I've only had one Clinton, the luminous version. It's a decent looking watch, I suppose. However, it's a bit on the small size by today's standards.
With the hands set to 10:12, the usual time that Hamilton displayed its watches in advertisements, the luminous hands look like cat's eyes peeking out of the dial.
However, stainless steel does have it's advantages - first and foremost is durability.
In 1949 Hamilton introduced another two all stainless models - the Raymon and the Clinton.
The Clinton was produced for 4 years. It's the second model to bear the name. There was an earlier Clinton (aka Greely) that was introduced in 1931 but wasn't shown in catalogs.
There are actually a variety of Clintons out there.. all four have sterling silver dials. One dial has rhodium plated numerals and dots (to appear silver) on a silver butler-finished dial. Two all-numeral dials have solid gold applied numerals that are rhodium plated or black painted and came on black finish or a silver butler finish, respectively. There was also a luminous dial with glow in the dark hands and numerals.
I have never seen the black figured dial with matching black hands... I think that might be the rarest variety.
Behind the dial is Hamiltons 8/0 sized, 17 jewel 747 movement, which was introduced in 1947.
Although stainless steel is extremely durable, I have found that you often see Clintons for sale with missing lugs. I guess the weld that held the curved lugs to the case could fail over time. It can be repaired though.
I've only had one Clinton, the luminous version. It's a decent looking watch, I suppose. However, it's a bit on the small size by today's standards.
With the hands set to 10:12, the usual time that Hamilton displayed its watches in advertisements, the luminous hands look like cat's eyes peeking out of the dial.
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