One of the more popular 1930's and 40's models is the 1938 Linwood. It was perhaps the most dramatic "curvex" models - or curved to fit the wrist. Some folks think the Linwood is rare but I don't have that opinion. Maybe it's "scarce", but I've seen quite a few - especially since it was produced for four years.
What's considerably more scarce the Linwood's slightly younger brother - the 1939 Foster. It shares a lot of the same features as the Linwood except it's cased in solid 14K gold. The Foster has a similar case design to the Linwood but the lugs flare out a little where the straps attach whereas the Linwood is a consistent curve.
The Foster was produced for only two years and priced originally at $80, it was considerably more expensive than the Linwood's price of $52.50. So unless you really wanted a solid gold case, I think the Linwood was probably purchased more readily.
One of the distinctive features of the Linwood and the Foster is they both have a special marker at the 6 position. That was pretty unusual as dials with applied gold numerals tend to skip the 6 position as it competes with the second had. However, the dials on the Foster and Linwood are so long the have lots of extra room - or at least just enough - for a marker. The Linwood has a gold star - very cool and the only model to feature a star, if I recall correctly. The Foster, on the other hand, just has a simple gold dot, or round marker. You may be wondering why you don't see in the photo below - that's easy, it's not there!
The back of the case is solid gold so there's little chance to see wear through like you'll often see on the Linwood. The case curves dramatically "to fit the wrist" and it's fairly comfortable to wear as long as you don't strap it down too tight.
This is interesting... the strap is Hamilton branded...
... but it's also marked 14mm so it's not that old. Originally the Foster would have had a 9/16" strap, which equates to 14mm. Based on the pattern of the leather I thought this was an ostrich strap but I was close - it's an American Emu. I can't say I've ever seen an Emu strap - have you?
With the bezel and the crystal out of the way, you can see a tiny hole where the gold dot should go at the 6 position. Based on the missing marker ant the tiny notch at the 3 position, I'm very confident this is a refinished dial.
My advice to any new collector is to focus on solid gold models. Your collection will be much smaller but every watch will be special and distinctive. There is just nothing like a solid gold case.
Tucked behind the dial is a 19 jewel 982 movement. The 982M didn't come out until 1940 and up until then, the 982 was used in solid gold models and the 17 jewel 980 in the gold filled cases.
Sure enough, the back of the dial shows several sets of numbers. That's a good clue that this dial was probably refinished more than once.
Despite several sets of watchmaker marks inside the case back, the mainspring is a blue steel design. I'm sure it's "set" into a tight coil and lost most of it's energy. It would probably power the watch for a few hours, but not many,
While everything is in the ultrasonic, I'll see if I have any dials with round markers. I have several candidates and several sizes to choose from.
I'll also prep a new white alloy Dynavar spring. The white alloy springs will last a "lifetime".
Everything is ready to be reassembled. Check out the coil of the new mainspring as compared to the old one above - quite a difference and the new one will power the watch for upwards of 40 hours.
It doesn't look like it in the photo below but the watch is ticking away with a nice motion. The timer will tell me how well it's really running.
You really can't do this kind of work without a timer. It listens to all the ticking and can tell you all sorts of information that you just wouldn't get otherwise. On the screen below you see two parallel lines (that's good). The slope is upward so you know it's running fast... 63 seconds per day, that is. You want to two lines to be close together and although they look fairly close, in reality they're very far apart. The line on the top is actually on the bottom. The distance represents the beat error and numerically it's 7.1ms. That just means one side of the balance swings further than the other side. Ideally it would swing equally side to side and be perfectly centered with a beat error of 0.0.
7.1ms is too high for my standards. I'm happy with 3.0ms or less. In order to adjust it I have to remove the balance wheel from the balance cock and rotate the hairspring collet. It doesn't take too much and every attempt risks disaster. It's very delicate business and I usually develop beads of sweat on my forehead while I do it.
In order to do it, you have to choose the right direction (or you'll make it worse) and then you need to adjust it the right amount. After my first attempt I got it down to 3.9ms. Still too high, so I'll press my luck and do it again the same direction and the same amount.
Alright! Pretty much right on the money. Still running a little fast but that's an easy adjustment of the regulator.
A tweak here, a tweak there - eventually I dialed it in to just a smidgeon fast per day.
Voila! The watch now runs great and it looks great too - especially with a round marker at the 6 position. This watch is ready for another 80+ years of service - as long as it gets overhauled again in a few years.
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