1927 Cushion Plain

Hamilton's original wrist watch line followed the Henry Ford philosophy... you could have any model you wanted, as long as it was a Cushion.  That lasted for a few years until the line up expanded to add the Square.  It wasn't really just those two choices though.  You could get them in several different versions of solid gold or gold filled.

In 1927 the model line really expanded, and the Barrel was introduced.  All the names were very simple - they referred to the shape of the case.  In addition, you had the option of "plain" or "engraved", which referred to whether or not the bezel was engraved.  So you had six models plus a variety of case materials to choose from.

Even more models came out in 1928 and the list continued to grow, year after year.

1927 also saw the introduced of the "new" 6/0 sized movement that would power most of the models.  The 17 jewel 987.  Shortly thereafter the 979 movement came out, with 19 jewels, and it would be used for the solid gold models (primarily).

The 987 is a very interesting caliber.  It evolved quickly into the 987F, where the jewel settings were friction fit instead of held in place with screws.  In 1935 the 987E was introduced, which was the 987F but with an Elinvar hairspring.  In 1937, the 987A came out and changed a lot of the structure of the caliber but the train wheels and many of the parts where shared with it's predecessors.

For all intents and purposes, Hamilton didn't view the movements as different.  A model that spanned those years could have any of the movements inside and if a early 1930s model came in to the factory for repair, it could leave the factory with a 987A behind the dial - good as new.

You can pretty much completely disassemble a 987, 987F and 987E, mix all the parts together, and reassemble three working movements - although only one of them would have the Elinvar balance.  However, all of the bridges are actually stamped with the movement serial number so you know what parts go with what movement.  It's interesting to come across mismatched bridges in a movement but it happens from time to time.

If you tried to add a 987A to the mix, you'd have a hard time getting it back together if you didn't keep the 987A bridges, etc together, and the shape of the hairspring stud wouldn't fit the earlier 987 balance cock.

So not everything is interchangeable but the complete assemblies are.

The Cushion Plain (or Engraved) changed a little over the years too but it's always the same name.  Earlier models had engraving on the center portion of the case, regardless of it's a plain or engraved model.

Later models the  case center was plain on the plain version.  I think it's interesting that the price difference between the gold filled and solid gold models wasn't dramatically different.  However, $25 in 1928 was a little less than $500 in today's currency.

Working on watches from this era can be very challenging.  I think they are the most temperamental movements that Hamilton made.  They're not bad designs - they were the best the 1920s had to offer.  They are simply really old, really worn, and usually poorly maintained after close to 100 years.  They do not suffer fools graciously - one false move and their delicate parts can break.  Don't drop them, bang them, or otherwise mis-use them like putting them in your golf bag next to a magnetic ball marker.

I like to recall how many old black and white movies have a scene where someone says, "Excuse me, do you have the time?  My watch has stopped."  It happened all the time and there was a watchmaker in just about every jewelry store that stayed very busy.

My project was described as "running fine until it wasn't".  That's not unusual.  It happens all the time.

Looking at it, I can see a few things to note.  First, the dial and hands are a replacement.  They look fine but they're not original.  The crown is a poor choice and doesn't really fit around the stem tube.  It's a later Cushion Plane based on the lack of engraving.  Lastly, it's a green gold (filled) case - which is an interesting color.  It looks like yellow, or natural, gold until you put it next to a yellow gold case - then the difference is more obvious.  You might be able to see the difference in the crown vs the case.

The case back is nicely engraved with a monogram and what looks to be 1932.  Perhaps this watch sat in the store for a while but it was still offered in 1931.

The case is a three piece design with a bezel and a back, each snap onto the case center, which retains the movement and the strap.

Opening up the case reveals a 987F with a very wobbly balance.  I can tell from the balance design that it's not original.  That's not a issue but the fact that it wobbles means the pivots on the balance staff are gone.

There's a white alloy mainspring inside the barrel - so that's good.  It doesn't need to be replaced.

Everything gets cleaned and a replacement balance is readied for installation.  Balance staffs can be replaced but it's a challenging procedure that takes a lot of time.  If I have a working balance, that's usually my first choice.  I know I'm not alone in the perspective - its not unusual to see movements for sale on ebay that are missing the balance.

Everything is reassembled and the balance is ticking away with a nice motion.

It's running a wee-bit fast but I can slow it down with a few tweaks.

Getting warmer.  It will slow a little from here.

The finished watch is outfitted with a proper crown and now looks perfect to my eyes.  This watch doesn't have to be the queen of the showcase but it does have to be treated like the 100 year old precision instrument that it is.   It's a fine watch for dress occasions but shouldn't be exposed to the wear and tear of regular daily use and abuse.  

1958 Sea Crest

It's interesting how sometimes you will find a Hamilton model changes during it's run.  Some models have a long production run - like the 1950s Rodney - it has several different dials.  Other models change bracelets from year to year.

One model that had a subtle change was the 1958 Sea-Crest.  In 1958 and 1959 it had an embossed dial with numerals and markers.

Then, in 1960 and for 1961, the dial changed and was no longer glow in the dark.  It looks like the bracelet also changed.

Mid-run changes like this can make identifying models tricky.

My project watch is an interesting example - it's the earlier dial but it's been customized for use as an award by the Air Force's Air Material Command.

I was told that it was not running well so I decided to put it on the timer.  Normally I don't bother with checking the time before I service it because it really doesn't matter... if it's got a serious issue I'll find out anyway.  Sure enough, it's running poorly... probably very slow but even the timer isn't sure.

The case back is engraved with a presentation for 1st place in the 1959 Tennis Open.  That's pretty cool, huh?  The case back has a prominent lip so you can tell this back will pop off.

Tucked inside is a 17 jewel Hamilton 673 movement.  The inside of the case back has a spring to keep the movement ring and movement in place.

Without the hands in the way, you can see the dial is in great shape.  There's a spec of dust by the 8 but that should come off easily.

Everything is cleaned and ready to be reassembled.

The balance is frozen in time thanks to my camera but in real time it's swinging away with a nice motion.  Now lets see what the timer has to say.

It's running a smidgeon fast.  I should be able to tweak it a bit from here.

There... I'll leave it running 7 seconds seconds fast per day.

The finished watch looks as good as it runs.  I don't think this watch has had much wrist time over the last 65+ years.

Hamilton Ladies Pocket / Pendant Watch 26032-14

 It doesn't happen very often but occasionally I come across a "Hamilton" watch that makes me wonder if it's legit or not.  There are fake Hamiltons out there for sure but that's not too common with vintage models.  It's not unheard of with modern Hamiltons though so you have to be aware of what you're looking for when it comes to buying a modern Hamilton from anyone other than an authorized dealer.

I was recently asked my opinion about what appears to be a ladies pocket watch, or perhaps a pendant watch.  What is your impression?

The Rococo-themed case is very ornately engraved and even the dial is overly embellished.  Still, it doesn't look quite right to my eye.  Hamilton's dials are always very well done, their engraving is crisp and exact.  This watch looks like it's trying to be something that it's not.

On the other hand, the Vantage line (a brand that Hamilton owned and used for less expensive models) did feature similar ladies pendant watches like this one...  it's not an exact match but it's within the range of imagination.

The back of the project watch is similarly styled.  You have to look very closely to see how this case separates.   The case back is popped off when a case knife is inserted in a small gap.

What's really interesting is it's actually very small.  In the photo below it's compared to a Secometer B and you can see it's considerably smaller.

The inside of the case back is stamped 26032 and 14.  The number below that is the serial number for the case.  It doesn't say Hamilton inside the case back.  What's more, the inside of the case doesn't even say what the case is made out of.  I do not think it's solid gold.  That a big red flag.  Hamilton always has their name in their case and will denote what the material is, whether it's solid gold or gold plated.

The movement inside is a Hamilton 26 caliber.  It's based on an ETA 2512.  It looks familiar and that's because it's also known as the Hamilton 680.  I don't have a good handle on ladies models from the 1970s or later but that would be my guess for when this watch was made.

The case is a three piece design with a case back, a bezel, and the center case that holds the movement.  Two screws secure the movement to the center case and once the stem is removed the assembly comes out the front.

The dial is held in place by two screws on the side of the movement.  Loosen those and the dial will lift straight off.

Although it's about the size of a nickel, this movement is obviously an ETA design and looks a lot like it's larger siblings.

Everything is carefully disassembled and cleaned.  I have to take extra care with a watch like this because the parts are extremely small and very easy to lose track of.

The most difficult task with reassembling this movement is to get all four train wheels to line up in order to get the train bridge in place.  There is no room for error - everything nests together or the train bridge won't fall into place.  Then the second most difficult task it to get the click spring back on.  It's tiny and likes to flick away and hide.  It's amazing how far a spring can travel with the slightest flick.

Now the reassembled movement is ticking away with a brisk motion.  This caliber has a beat rate of 21,600 beats per hour - noticeably faster than the typical 18,000 beat rate most earlier calibers have.

It's running nicely.  I'll see if I can slow it down a smidgeon and fine tune the beat rate.  That's easier said than done on such a tiny movement.

That's a little better.  It took quite a few attempts and I decided to call it here... 16 second fast per day.

The dial goes back on and then the movement can go back into the case.

These hands are called "open moon" hands.  It's the same style many ladies watches from the 1920s were outfitted with.  I aligned the hands at 12:00 and the watch is ready to be closed up.

The finished watch looks pretty much the same as what I started with.  I think it's a very interesting watch.  Hamilton often included the movement caliber in the model number and 26032 is in keeping with that tradition.  However, there are a lot of red flags, so I'm note sure I would say this is a legit model.  It's likely from the 1980s and could be a "jeweler's special" where a Hamilton movement was cased with an aftermarket case and dial.  You'd really have to find some original paperwork or advertisement to be certain.

1959 Kinematic Sugar Bowl

Hamilton produced watches for awards and presentations through a special department.  You could customize the watch is a variety of ways including customizing the dial or engraving the back.

In 1959 Hamilton provided watches for participants and key people involved in the 1959 Sugar Bowl.  The Sugar Bowl that year included Clemson vs LSU and it was held January 1, 1959 at Tulane Stadium in New Orleans. LSU won the game 7-0 to claim their first national championship.

The photo above includes the starting offense for Clemson's Sugar Bowl team.  The photo below shows Clemson head coach Frank Howard with members of his team during practice for the 1959 Sugar Bowl.   Is it just me or do these players look a lot older than 21 years old?

The Awards Division typically used models that were discontinued from the regular commercial line. The logic being recipients wouldn't find their awards for sale in their local jewelry store.  

The watch used in 1959 was based on the 1957 Kinematic I.  This model was produced for two years so by 1959 it was discontinued.  There's a very similar looking model called the Kinematic II but it came out in 1960... to early to use for a 1959 award.

The Kinematic I is an interesting line.  There are only two models in the line up and they both use the same Hamilton caliber - the 672.  This caliber was also used in the Accumatic line so why the Kinematics was not included in the Accumatic line is a mystery to me.

The Kinematic came in a 10K RGP case with a stainless steel back.  It was considered waterproof but that assumes the gaskets included were in good shape.

My project watch has had a vigorous life and is well worn.  As you can see, this model has somewhat delicate lugs and they've been bent in different directions so they look a little wonky.  I'm going to let sleeping dogs lie when it comes to the lugs.  Tweaking them even a little could result in the lug coming off - instantly making the watch a pocket watch.  It can be fixed by a talented gold smith but it's not something I will risk.

The case back is engraved Clemson vs LSU and M.A. Wilson.

Tucked inside the case is the 17 jewel 672 movement you'd expect to see.  This movement is based on an ETA 1256.  This is a pretty common caliber used in lots of other manufacturers lines.  This watch is missing the movement retaining brackets and screws.  Other Kinematics I've worked on require them and I think this watch does too.

The crystal on the watch appears to be new and defect free but the finish on the dial is a little crazed.  I'm not going to attempt to clean this dial as I could easily ruin it, even by getting it wet.

All the parts are disassembled and cleaned.  The movement was very dirty and everything is nice and shiny now.  I'll need to replace a couple of screws.  This movement had some incorrect screws from prior services, I assume.

The basic movement is reassembled and the balance is now ticking away.  It's at a point now where I can put it on the timer to see how it's running.

Things are looking good.  All of the specs are within my acceptable range so I'll leave it running as it is.  The beat rate will likely settle down after a while.

The finished watch looks a bit shinier than what I started with but it's running much better and now ready for some more wrist time.  It will look a lot better once the lugs are adjusted to look even.

1956 Automatic K-455 - or is it?

It's not unheard of to come across a vintage Hamilton that is hard to identify.  It's gotten a lot easier thanks to the HamiltonFieldGuide but sometimes weird things happen.

For example, it wasn't unusual for the Hamilton factory to be stretched in busy times of the year like graduation and Christmas seasons.  It's well documented by former employees that you sometimes had to use what was available when it came to parts like hands, etc.

Of course, a lot can happen to a watch over 70+ years.  Hamilton watches were expensive and if something damaged the case, for example, a frugal owner could simply recase the dial and movement into an aftermarket case.

Fast forward to the 21st century and today's collectors inherit the sins of the past.  Stuff happens.

I recently had the opportunity to help someone with their father's 1956 Automatic K-455.  This model was made for three years.

In 1956 the K-455 was offered in a 10K gold filled case with a stainless steel back.  The dial featured solid 18K numerals and luminous dots, along with a pearled track.  The case is sometimes referred to as a "flying saucer" design, which was a common aesthetic in the 1950s.   It was available on a strap or a bracelet with model numbers for each.

If the case looks familiar, it could be because it was shared with the Transcontinental A that was offered at the same time.  The Transcontinental A featured a rotating dial that moved with the hour hand so you could see the time in whatever timezone was of interest to you.

In 1957 and 1958 a second all-numeral dial option was offered so there were four different model numbers, depending on dial and strap/bracelet configuration.

My project watch is a little different.  Can you spot what's going on?

You guessed it - this is not a dial that was offered with the K-455, or was it?

Turns out, this dial wasn't even offered until 1958.  It was used on two different models... the Automatic K-412 as well as the Automatic K-302.  So what's the story?  Did it leave the factory with this dial or was it added at some time later?

It's not unusual for the luminous material on hands from this time to take a toll on the dial.  The radium in the luminous paint when held so closely to the finish of the dial, for years and even decades, can eventually burn the finish and leave an ugly shadow.  It would be a pretty easy change to just swap the damaged dial with something that looked better.  The same would be true if something else happened to the original dial... water damage, etc.

It's interesting that this watch has been in the same family for 70 years and there's no memory of a change being made.

Anyway - who knows the story?  Does it really matter?

The back of the case is stainless steel and unscrews off if you have a case wrench.

The inside of the case back is stamped "Time Zone A" - I guess that took up less space than Transcontinental A.  There is no model called the Time Zone but it's not unusual to see a K455 with this stamped inside - it was the same case, after all.  I can see several different watchmaker's marks inside so I'm not the first person to open this case in 70 years.

Like most K-series automatics, there's a17 jewel 661 movement inside.  I like this movement - it's big and chunky and built like a tank, in as far as a watch can be tank-like.

Everything is taken completely apart and cleaned in my ultrasonic for almost 30 minutes.  There's a cleaning cycle followed by two different rinses.  Then it's all dried and ready to be put back together.

The reassembled movement is bright and shiny.  It's ticking away with a nice motion but only the timer can say for sure how it's doing.

It doesn't get much better than this.  I hope I'm running this well when I'm 70 years old.

The dial and hands go back on and it all goes back into the case.  The large weight swings around smoothly and winds the watch while you wear it.  However, you can wind it manually with the crown too and the original instructions were to wind it manually before you put it on and the automatic bits keep it topped off from there.

A new crystal and a gentle case polish complete the restoration.  This watch reminds me of an old Corvette I once saw for sale.  It looked great and the sign said "Numbers don't match and Owner don't care".  Does it really matter that this dial and case may be an after-factory marriage?  Maybe if you were running a museum, but it was your old man's then not at all.  It's just part of it's life story.