1972 Dateline A-593

Hamilton wasn't consistent with how it named calendar models in the 1970's.  Sometimes models are Auto Cal models and sometimes they carried over the Dateline A-series that began in the 1960's.

Go figure.

One of the Dateline models was the 1972 Dateline A-593.  It was produced for three years.

You can't tell from the black and white catalog image what the Dateline A-593 ought to look like.  The case is stainless steel and the dial is light gray - that's about all you know.  The watch also uses a Quick Change II movement.

I received my project watch from a friend of mine.  I happened to see this watch on eBay a while ago and I suspect my buddy had the bracelet for it.  He's one of those crazy people who hoards bracelets in the hopes he someday finds the watch to go with it.  As a result, he has a world-class collection of Hamiltons with their original bracelets.

Looking at the project watch, I can see it has an issue with the stem.  I thought initially it was just too long.  However, it doesn't wind the watch.  I can pull it out to set the date and time though - just not wind the watch.

This bracelet has a deployment style clasp that is still installed on new Hamiltons today.

The case has a screw-on case back - that tells me this is a one-piece stem - which is good.  Two-piece stems can be finicky to trim.

The 822 movement is based on an ETA 2783 movement - and you'll see why in a second.  Notice the screw that holding the rotor on.  It has something under it.

To get the movement out I need to remove the stem first.  I have to push the set lever indent in and pull the stem out at the same time.

The ETA 2783 uses a helicoid stem with a funny twist.  The ETA 2782 uses a straight stem.  So this watch has the wrong stem installed.  It will fit but it won't move the clutch wheel up against the winding pinion.  The twist of the helicoid stem is what works that magic and allows the watch to wind manually.

I noticed an odd washer-like thing on top of the 4th wheel pivot.  I also noticed the screw on the ratchet wheel isn't correct.  In fact, the screw that held the rotor on is for the ratchet wheel and the ratchet wheel is for the rotor.  Whoever reassembled this watch last time went through a lot of trouble to put the screws in the wrong spots - and had to add a washer to make it work.

The dial-side of the main plate looks to be in good shape.

Everything is taken fully apart and cleaned.  Time for reassembly.

The watch didn't want to run cleanly.  Ultimately, I realized the hairspring is bent.  The watch will tick but it won't keep time well.

I had to take the hairspring off in order to try to get it back in shape.  It's not perfect but hopefully it will work better now.  Hairsprings are REALLY hard to tweak - it takes a lot of patience and excellent No 5. Dumont tweezers.

Ultimately I had to resort to plan B - and use a replacement balance.  My tweaked hairspring was better but still not good enough.  I think I got it shaped well in the round but it wasn't exactly flat.  This type of balance is used in a lot of ETA grades from the 1970's and I happened to have a nice donor.

Looks like it's going to need a little tweaking ... the amplitude is great but the beat error and beat rate need to be adjusted.  Fortunately, this balance is very easy to adjust both metrics.

How's that for dialing the specs?  I'll leave it running a little fast for now and adjust it again after it settles in.

Everything looks great now that it's reinstalled in the case.  The orange hands definitely make a statement on the otherwise mono-chromatic background.  This watch surely fits in well with "big and chunky" theme I'll have going for the next few watches.

1973 Auto Cal Sovereign

Fans of the Madagascar movies might recall the scene where "Moto Moto" puts his moves on "Gloria".  He likes 'm big, he likes 'm chunky.

Moto Moto must have worked at Hamilton in the 1970's, as that's a great way to describe many of the models introduced in that decade.

I'll have a few of them to show soon but I'll start with the 1973 Auto Cal Sovereign.  The model was produced for four years.

The Auto Cal Sovereign, as you might guess, is an automatic with a calendar complication.  The Q/C II designation means that it's got a quick change setting ability that allows you to easily set the date.  Prior calendar models required you to advance in time to change the date.  With the Q/C function, you pull the crown out midway between the winding position and the time setting position and you can change the date by turning the crown.

The Sovereign came in a 14K yellow gold electroplated case with a stainless steel back.  The dial is blue and the second hand is white.  So it's very colorful model.

You didn't see colored dials on Hamiltons before 1969 other than the basics... white, silver, black, and occasionally gold.  The 1970's was a different story.

My Auto Cal Sovereign wasn't very attractive based on the seller's photo but the their description didn't sound too bad, "In good condition with minor surface scratches on case and crystal."  The dial appeared to have dust or something on it but it otherwise looked like it should clean up well.

One of the things that working on watches teaches you is patience.  It also gives you a healthy dose of humility, from time to time.  Having tenacity and a flair for persistence isn't a bad idea either.

So even though I'm in the 99th percentile of patience, tenacity, and persistence, I sometimes get a little eager to "tear into" a new project when the mailman drops one off.

That was the case with this watch.  I got into it without my camera handy and I just couldn't stop myself.  So I don't have my usual photos to describe my project.

Long story short, the seller's description wasn't entirely true...  the watch was good apparent condition with minor surface scratches on case and crystal.  However, what the seller seemed to miss was that the crown was frozen on and the watch could not be wound or set.

That's pretty much why I got carried away.  My initial inspection of the watch led me to realize it was a rusty mess in the keyless works area and it was totally seized up inside.  The watch would run if the automatic wound it - but there was no way the time or date could be set.

Grrr!

Taking apart a rusty watch is a real pain but I eventually got there and I used parts from a donor movement to get everything back in shape.

The movement inside my project watch is a caliber 821.  It's pretty darned similar to an 822 and, in fact, I have no idea what the difference could possibly be.  There must be something though. As you can see by the shape of the rotor - it's an ETA based grade.

I was able to clean the dial up very well.  It's not 100% but it's more than presentable.  I replaced the beat up old crystal with a GS Evr-Tite 29.6mm crystal with a yellow reflector ring.  I paired the watch with a nice leather strap with blue stitching.  It's a pretty sharp combination, if you like 'm big and chunky.

A lot of models from the 1970's later are also identified by the numbers on the case back.  So the Auto Cal Sovereign is identifiable by the number 840007-4.  The -4 indicates the bezel should be yellow.

1959 Thin-o-matic T-450

"Thin was in" in 1959 and well into the 1960's.  In 1959 Hamilton introduced the Thin-o-matic line and many of the models featured new Buren-based micro-rotor movements.  Hamilton had relationships with a number of Swiss ébauche makers but Buren was special... so special, in fact, that Hamilton purchased the company in 1966.  So you will find lots and lots of models from the 1960s with Buren-based Hamilton movements.

One of the new models introduced in 1959 was the Thin-o-matic T-450.  It was produced through 1963 - a pretty good run for model.

By 1963 a Masonic dial was also offered.  It's interesting to note the price also dropped a little.  How often does that happen?

As you might guess, the T-450 has a 10K gold filled case with a stainless steel back.  The 4 and 5 digits reflect that aspect.  The 0 means it was the first Thin-o-matic with a 10K gold filled case with stainless back.  Another model, the T-451 would be introduced the next year.

I haven't really figured how how Hamilton chose which movements to use in models.  Their catalogs don't really get into the specific grades used.  So I don't know if the T-450 used the same Buren grade for all five years of production.

My project watch came courtesy of a collector in Canada.  I've seen the T-450 for sale before but never successfully landed one, so it was good to have an opportunity to see one first hand.  As received, it was in fairly good overall condition and running.  The crystal was a little beat up but that's easily replaced.

The stainless steel case back is flat all the way across - a sure sign there's a micro-rotor movement inside.  This type of back design is usually easy to open and it doesn't look like anyone has buggered it up in the past.

You can see why this is called a Thin-o-matic... it's definitely a very thin watch.

Inside a Hamilton 666 movement... the number of the beast.  That's fitting, as taking apart these movements and then reassembling them can be a real chore.  It's been a while since this watch has been cleaned but it doesn't look too bad.

Apparently the oscillating weight has been rubbing the inside of the case back.  I see a couple of watchmaker's marks inside so this watch has been serviced at least a couple of times in it's almost 60 years of existence.

The dial has a faint radium burn from the hour hand staying at 3:15 for many years, I bet.  There's also a little dent in the dial from a past watchmaker's hand removal tool.

The dial-side of the main plate looks good - just a little dirty.  The large red jewel supports an axle-less wheel that moves side-to-side and allows the watch to wind regardless of the direction the rotor turns.

Boy there are a lot of parts in a micro-rotor movement.  I haven't done a calendar micro-rotor yet.  I can't say I'm looking forward to it either.  That could add another 50% to the overall parts count.

The movement is now bright and shiny and ticking away with good motion.

It's running a little fast but nothing that a slight tweak to the regulator won't address.

There... that's not to shabby.  The amplitude is a little low but I haven't fully wound the watch yet.

A new crystal will be a great improvement.  30.3mm should do the trick.

If you compare this movement shot to the one above, I think you'll agree that this movement is much brighter now that it's been cleaned.

I relumed the dial and hands so there's no more risk of radium burning the dial.  A fresh crystal and new alligator strap complete the restoration.  This watch looks as good as it runs.

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