1938 Dodson

One of the interesting design aesthetics of the late 1930s and early 1940s was the use of rose gold.  With the rare exception of the Ventura in the 1950s, rose gold was used predominantly in a handful of models just before WWII.  There were solid rose gold Venturas made for the South American market but beyond that, the use was limited to pre WWII.

Another interesting design element is the use of tubular lugs.  There are quite a few models from the same period that featured them and I can't think of any other time period that you'll see them.  Perhaps its because the feature helps the design to curve with the wrist - that was big in the 1930s.  A good example is the 1938 Dodson.

Other models with tubular lugs include the Sutton, Bowman, and the Medwick.  But there are even more.

As for the Dodson, the model was produced through 1948 so it's a common model to find in the wild.  It's even one of the first models I covered when I started this blog in 2012!

The Dodson was available with either an applied gold numeral dial or black enamel numeral dial.  The latter was slightly less expensive but is arguably harder to find.  Behind the dial you will find a 17 jewel 987A movement.  The 6/0 size is a good size for a wrist watch movement and the Dodson is large by 1940s standards.

My project watch comes courtesy of the original owner's son and that makes it "priceless", even in the condition it's in.  The crystal is missing and the bezel shows extensive wear through on the tops of all four lugs.  The dial is very dirty and has a splotchy appearance.  The second hand is an obvious replacement.  Lastly, the Spiedel bracelet isn't doing this watch and fashion favors.  One thing is clear though, this watch was well loved by it's owner.

The back of the case features the current owner's father's name.  The back is severely worn through on the edges and shows clear signs of prior repairs, probably to fill a hole or two.

One of the lugs has been worn down to the hole for the spring bar.  This would need to be repaired or there's a good chance the watch would come off while wearing it.

The crown is an old replacement of some sort.  It has a logo but it's not a Hamilton logo.

The crown is lacking a dust ring.  Crowns from this era often had a dust ring that fit into the opening of the case, keeping dirt out and preventing the round movement from rotating out of position.  Without the dust ring, the stem can move up or down a few degrees and make the dial appear crooked.  It can also let excess moisture in.

There are quite a few prior watchmaker service marks inside the case back.  That's always nice to see.  This watch was well taken care of back in the day.

The movement is running but the regulator is set close to full slow.  I'll wind it a little and check it out on the timer to see what I'm dealing with.  The serial number dates this watch to 1947.

The timing is not too bad.  I'll take this performance any day, as long as it runs like this in the other positions.

The set lever screw is very rusted.  I'll have to loosen this screw in order to remove the stem (to change the crown) and my experience tells me the screw will break when I try to loosen it.  It's best to just replace it.

There's a missing dial foot screw.  The dial is held on with three dial feet and it's not unusual to see one of the them missing a screw.  Two feet will hold it in place but three is better.

I was hoping with all the prior watchmaker's marks inside the case back that one of my predecessors would have installed a Dynavar mainspring so I wouldn't have to.  These white alloy mainsprings are "lifetime" rated and shouldn't have to be changed.

The dial is an old refinish.  I can tell by the layer of glue on the back that holds the gold figures in place.  Refinished dials don't respond well to cleaning.  If you're not careful, or even if you are, all of the printing can come off.

I have two original dials that I could potentially use.  I know they are original because they have a the dial number 0139 on the bottom of them.  Personally, I'll take a crappy looking original dial over a crappy looking refinished dial any day of the week.  The dial that's in the baggie isn't too bad compared to the other two.  I'll plan to use it.

I'll look in my stash of empty cases for a better Dodson bezel I can use.  I didn't realize when I took the photo that I was staring right at one... can you spot it?

Turns out, I actually have four bezels I could choose from.  I'll closely inspect them to see which one has the best lug shape and wear patterns.

A new crystal is a necessity on this project - as there wasn't one to start with.  I'll have to wet-sand the edges to get a perfect fit.

Everything is cleaned and ready to be reassembled.  However, first I need to address the rusty set lever screw.

One of my favorite tools is my Knipex pliers.  Knipex makes GREAT tools.  These pliers are large but the tips are so precise that you can actually grab something as small as the rusty nub of a set lever screw.  If you want to assess if a tool is precise, visually inspect how the tips meet.  You'll be surprised how often there's a gap.

First I need to find a set lever screw I can steal from a parts movement.  This one will do.

I flipped it over and, low and behold, it's another Dodson dial with nicer hands and the movement even has the crown!  I can also steal a dial foot screw to complete my project watch movement.

The movement can now be reassembled with the new set lever screw.  Once back together, the movement is ticking away with a nice motion.  It's off to the timer to listen to the ticking.

Not too shabby.  The amplitude is lower than when I started but I haven't wound the mainspring fully yet.  I'll let it run for a while to settle in and then make any final tweaks.

Wow, this finished watch is a magnificent transformation.  This sort of restoration is very challenging as I want to avoid a "ship of Theseus" situation where I change so many parts that it's no longer the same watch I started with.  However, it is now what it was when the original owner first treasured it.  The worn bezel is replaced with a wear-free example but the case back is the same.  The dial is blemish-free and protected by a glass crystal.  All of the hands, as well as the crown, are proper Dodson parts.

This is a really nice example of the Dodson and with it's engraving, it should be a treasured family heirloom for generations to come.

1960 Automatic K-415

It's been a long time since I've seen a new-to-the-blog Automatic K-series watch.  I should compare the list of models to the models I've already covered.  I bet I'm pretty close.  

Anyway, I'm now one model closer to finding them all.  Today's watch is a one-year-wonder and was produced only in 1960.  So there aren't that many out there, compared to all the other models that were produced.  

By 1960, there were a lot of choices for the discriminating buyer.  You had the Automatic K-series line, but also the fairly new Accumatic A-series as well as the equally new Thin-o-matic line.  Plus you had plenty of really interesting Electric models entering the line up.  And of course, there would be plenty of manual winding models to choose from as well.

The 1960 Automatic K-415 would be the 15th K-series model with a gold filled case... well, sort of.  There is no K-413, for some reason, at least not in the catalogs.  If you're curious, there would be five more before the K series ended with the K-420.

To my eye, it looks very similar to the K-407 and the K-410 (another model I haven't come across yet).

As you can see in the catalog snips below, the case of the K-415 shares a similar look to the K-407 and K-410, in that all three have a recessed crown.  Each has it's own unique bracelet though, and the dials are different, of course.  So all three are distinctly different models and the cases are not interchangeable... they just look similar and are easily confused.

My project watch appears to have had a rough life.  It's very dirty, and has more that it's fair share of corrosion.  The Speidel bracelet is an aftermarket add on and will be tossed in the bin once I remove it.  The watch itself looks decent enough, but it's not running.

It appears like the majority of corrosion is limited to the bracelet.

If you look closely, you can make out the initials of the original owner's name peeking out from a layer of "old man funk".  This watch is long overdue for a trip to the spa - but it looks like it served it's owner well and could tell a few good stories.

It took a bit of elbow grease but I was able to unscrew the case back.  The movement is in remarkably nice shape.  The rotor appears to have been rubbing the case back and it's left a ring on the inside.  I see one prior service mark.

Lifting the movement out of the case, I can see the dial looks really good.  There's a hint of radium burn from the hands but nothing too remarkable.

I moved the small detent in the center of the rotor in the direction of the arrow in order to free the rotor from it's arbor.  Now I can lift the rotor off the movement and start the disassembly process.

A new crystal will be nice improvement.

Everything is cleaned and dried.

The crown on the stem is very worn and showed corrosion similar to the bracelet.  It's lost a lot of it's surface and nows a good time to replace it - if I have the correct one.

There is a surprisingly lot of information needed to choose a crown.  First you need to know the style... dress, waterproof, etc.  Then you need to know the critical dimensions, the diameter of the head, the size of the pipe (if there is one), the height of the crown, the thread tap, the color, etc.  It's harder than you think.  Using my calipers I can see the existing crown has a diameter of 3.8mm.

Looking in the parts manual, I can try to guess what crown it could be.  I still need some info, but I know it's waterproof, yellow, and has a pipe.  I'm thinking 184939, 184940, 184941, 194842, and 184943 are all possibilities.  I've tried to build out a stash of crowns to see what they look like but I haven't found them all yet.  I'm missing 940 and 942 but I have the other three to try.

First I'll start with 184939 and 184941... 939 is larger than 941.

Whatever crown I choose, it will need to fit in the recess of the case but on top of the pipe sticking out.  The 939 crown is too large for the recess and the 941 wouldn't accommodate the pipe.  So I need something 3.8mm diameter with a pipe larger than 1.7.

184943 is my only available choice... let's try it.

We have a winner!  The new crown fits inside the recess and goes over the pipe.  It's also the correct color and thread (tap 10).

Looking at the new crown versus the old crown, the old crown appears to be taller (height) so 184942 might be the perfect choice, but I haven't been able to find one yet.  Of course, there's no saying that the old crown is even the original.  Going off the catalog image, the crown is fully recessed and matches 184943.

Now that the crown is sorted out, I can reassemble the watch and get it onto the timer.

The reassembled movement is ticking away with a fine motion.  The timer agrees and says it's running a little fast.  I'll let it settle down before making any adjustments.

The finished watch looks as good as it runs.  I find this dial very interesting.  The hour markers alternate styles with the even markers looking like hearts (sort of) and the odd markers like arrow heads.  At first, I thought the might be the same markers but on close examination, they are quite different.  Regardless, this is a fantastic example of a rarely seen model.

1935 Ramsey Pocket Watch with 918 - Ask the Man Who Owns One...

Hamilton made all sorts of awards watches for organizations or companies.  You could even personalize your own watch by putting your name on the dial in place of numerals for hour markers!

One of the most prolific companies to use Hamilton watches for awards was the Packard Motor Car Company.  Packard was well known for creating luxury cars, especially before WWII.  During the war, Packard made lots of military-related products, including the Liberty V-12 engine used by the US Navy in PT boats.

After the war, Packard struggled to compete with the Big 3 automakers... GM, Ford, and Chrysler.  Eventually Packard merged with Studebaker to form Studebaker-Packard Corporation.  After several years of declining sales, the Packard brand ended in 1959.

You will find a variety of Packard awards watches out in the wild and they're easy to spot because they all have the Pakard slogan "Ask the man who owns one" on the dial.  This slogan came from the advertising jingle that promoted the brand...

"Ride ride ride ride ride along
in your Packard, in your Packard.
In a Packard you've got the world on a string.
In a Packard car you feel like a king.
Ride ride ride ride ride along
in your Packard, what fun!
And ask the man, just ask the man
the lucky man who owns one!"

As an awards watch, they're usually cased in solid gold so I've come across plenty of movements with dials after their case was scrapped but I haven't had a complete watch until now.

It's a pocket watch model called the Ramsey from 1935.

The Ramsey was cased in solid 14K gold, either in white or natural gold (yellow).  You could choose the dial you wanted as well as one of three movements, the 922 with 23 jewels, the 904 with 21 jewels or the 918 with 19 jewels.  These movements would all be replaced in a year or two with the soon to be released 917, 921 and 923 movements.

All the physical dimensions of the 918, 904 and 922 are the same, the construction of the movements improved along with the jewel count.  The 918 movement was a fine movement with nickel plating, 19 extra-fine ruby and sapphire jewels, solid gold chatons (jewel settings), micrometric regulator and it was adjusted to temperature as well as three positions (dial up, dial down, pendant up).  The 904 and the 922 included white gold plating on the movement, solid gold train wheels, and were adjusted to five positions.  The 922 is an especially attractive movement.

My project watch arrived courtesy of it's current owner.  It's a family heirloom and way overdue for restoration,  It's not mine, but I'm grateful it's being saved for future generations, as the solid gold case is quite valuable.  The Ramsey was priced at $100 in 1935... that's $2400 in today's dollars but with gold over $4,000 an ounce, this watch is probably worth that or more in gold alone! 

The case back snaps on and you just need a fingernail to get it to open.

Under the rear cover is a dust cover that bears the presentation to the recipient from 1935 for 10 years of service.  Boy, those days are gone for sure.  Name a company that treats their loyal employees to a gold watch after 10 years!

The inside of the dust cover shows the 14K solid gold mark hallmark.  The inside of the rear cover shows all the Hamilton Watch Co information.

The movement appears to be in decent condition at first blush, but close inspection shows rust in a few areas, including the hairspring, which is not good.  The movement is not running but nothing appears to be broken.

The tip of the second hand appears to be black - I'm not sure if that's rust or if it was purposely painted black.  This dial is the No. 50 pattern with solid 18K numerals and features the Packard logo.

There are three dial foot screws on the side of the movement.  I'll loosen all three and will lift the dial off the main plate.

Despite my best efforts, I couldn't get the dial off.  One of the dial feet is stuck solid.  So I had to remove the balance (for safety) and then the barrel bridge so I could have access to the dial foot from the opposite side.  I placed a dot of penetrating oil on the foot and was able to push it out from behind.

With the dial of the way, I can remove the hour wheel and cannon pinion.  The rest of the dial-side of the main plate looks pretty good, other than a little rust on the screw heads.

While the parts are in the cleaner I will turn to my go-to polish for the case.  The initial photo doesn't really show the extent of black grime that covers the case.  I don't think it's dirt, per se, but the result. of years and years of exposure to a humid environment - perhaps inside a safe somewhere.

Everything is cleaned and ready to be reassembled.

First one are the escape and 4th wheels and their bridge.  Once they spin freely I can install the third and center wheel, barrel, and install the barrel bridge.

A little bit of trivia for you... during this period of time, the balance cock screw had a smaller head that the rest of the train bridge screws.  You can see the screw to the right (below) is intended for the balance cock.  The other two support the barrel or train bridges.

Once all the train wheels are installed and spin effortlessly, I install the pallet fork.  After this point I can wind the watch and then install the balance.

The movement ticked with the balance installed but there is a big difference between ticking and actually keeping time.  This balance is making a lot of noise as it moves.

Rust is really bad for watches and especially on the hairspring or the mainspring.  Just a tiny amount of rust on the mainspring will cause it to break.  The hairspring will move with a little rust but it's ability is compromised.  This is why you want to always keep vintage watches away from water - even if you think they are waterproof.

The watch's balance is on the left below.  I happened to have a 918 donor balance and you can compare the two below.  Notice the difference in rust!

My donor balance is ticking away with a nice motion.  Time to see what the timer thinks of it.

Not too shabby but the beat error is way too high at 5.6ms.  I will have to remove the balance and try to reduce the beat error by improving how well the impulse jewel is centered.  The beat error is a measure of how far the balance swings from one side to the other.  When the impulse jewel is centered, the beat error is zero.

After a couple of attempts, I was able to get the beat error reduced to an acceptable 1.7ms, well within my personal specs of 3.0ms or less.

The dial and hands go back onto the movement and the assembly goes back into the freshly polished case.  This watch now looks like the family heirloom it is intended to be.