1959 Montclair

It's been a while since I've found a new model that I haven't seen before.  That's getting harder and harder to do.  There are about 975 mechanical models in Hamilton's portfolio of US made wrist watches and I think I've documented 800+ of them.  So the remaining models are either very expensive or just uncommon.

I think uncommon watches are interesting.  Surely there is a reason or two why they're hard to find.  Perhaps they we unappealing to buyers at the time.  It could be that there were very similar but less expensive options in the lineup.  Maybe there was a production issue that limited the run... like the case maker had a problem with the design.  I wouldn't be surprised if simply the law of diminishing returns applied - every decade there were more and more models available in the lineup.  With so many options, some models were bound to be less chosen than others.

For example, in 1930 there were about 20 catalogued men's models to choose from.  In 1940 there were 32 models in Hamilton's men's wrist watches lineup.  By 1950 there were 46 men's models to choose from.  In 10 more years the men's lineup expanded to over 140 different models!  It's no wonder that some are harder to find than others.

One of the models included in the that long list of 140+ models is the 1959 Montclair.  It was produced through 1961.

The Montclair was available in 14K yellow gold or white gold - so that adds to it's potential obscurity.  It's a classic Hamilton model with a US-made Hamilton movement.

In 1960 the dial was changed slightly to add numerals at 3, 6, 9, and 12.  So you will see two different varieties out in the wild, if you see one at all.

Oddly enough, in 1961 the dial went back to the 12-only option with markers in the other positions.  This means if you see a dial with 3-6-9-12 it's a 1962 model, otherwise if it has a H-logo it's a 1961 model, if not, it's a 1959 version.

My project watch has seen better days. It's in "is this worth saving?" condition.  It's obviously had water intrusion.  It's not working and I'm not even able to set the time.

The back of the case is engraved with a presentation recognizing 25 years of service - this is as sentiment representing a period when companies actually cared about the dedication of employees beyond only the C-suite. 25 years is a long time to work for a company - more than a quarter of someone's life.

This watch shows evidence of it's original bracelet, based on the grooves worn into the lugs.  I'm not a huge fan of bracelets for that reason - they can damage the lugs.  However this example isn't too bad but going with a strap is always a better option, in my opinion.

I removed the crystal with the presumption that this watch opens through the front.  However, that doesn't appear to be the situation.  It does afford a better look at the dial though and although the catalog says it's an embossed dial, it sure looks like the figures are applied gold markers and numerals.  I'd have to look at the back of the dial to be sure.

Very close inspection reveals a slight gap in the side opposite the crown where a case knife can be applied to remove the back.

Fortunately the owner of this watch was able to provide a donor movement, complete with a better dial and hands.

The back of the movement reveals a movement ring to secure the assembly in the case.  It's quite obvious that water got inside the movement and it might be salvageable (I've seen worse) but since I have a donor movement in better shape, I'll use that instead.

This caliber is a 730 movement.  It's identical to the 747 movement with the exception of using shock jewels at the balance.  Notice there is no serial number on the movement - Lancaster-made movements stopped having serial numbers in 1955.  So unless something varies by year on the outside of the case (like the dial options on this model), there's really no easy way to date a model to a specific year when it was produced for several years.

My donor movement looks largely identical with the exception of the rust.

Everything gets thoroughly cleaned before being reassembled with fresh lubrication in all the wear points.

The reassembled movement is ticking away with a good motion.  Even my camera shows the ticking motion with the blurred balance wheel.

It's running a smidgeon fast but that's no biggie. the regulator is set to run a little fast so a slight tweak back the center will slow the beat rate down.

And... voila!  The finished watch looks fantastic and definitely answers the "is this watch worth saving" question.  Looking very closely at the dial, I'd say it is embossed after all, as the figures appear to have a slight contour on the sides to indicate they're stamped in place versus applied solid gold markers.  Regardless, this a great looking watch now.

1948 Dwight

 A lot of Hamilton collectors have a favorite decade and their reasons can vary.  For example, watches from the 1930s have a lot of unique styles, dials and case designs.  Watches from the 1950s represent the pinnacle of Hamilton achievements with Electrics and Automatics being added to the line up, unique bracelets added to the design, and every model featured shock jeweling at the balance.  Watches from the 1960s are sleek and elegant, as represented in the Mad Men series on TV, and there was a unique design for every man.  

I think my favorite decade is the 1940s.  I tend to imagine the men of WWII going off to war with a Hamilton watch they received for graduation, carrying a Hamilton watch into the air as a pilot or navigator, or receiving a fine watch after the war to celebrate getting married.  Watches from the 1940s tend to be the smallest of all the decades but the saying, "real men wear small watches" aptly applies.  The generation that stormed the beaches of Anzio, Iwo Jima, and Normandy wore small watches.  That's good enough for me.

One of the interesting 1940s models is the Dwight.  It was produced for only a single year, so there aren't that many of them out there.  It looks very similar to the Milton from the same year but it's considerably wider.  The similarity is mostly in the swooping lugs - there's definitely a strong family resemblance.

The Dwight differed from the Milton in several ways beyond just the size.  First, the case is 10K yellow gold filled, versus 14K gold filled for the Milton.  10K gold filled models received the 17 jewel 980 movement, instead of the 19 jewel 982.  The Dwight features a two tone dial with all numerals, similar to other period watches like the Eric.  

It's interesting to note that the Dwight is a one-year-wonder.  I wonder why production was so limited.  Perhaps it's similarity to other models wasn't enough to differentiate it. 

One other interesting trivia bit for the Dwight is it's one of the relatively few rectangular models with a round seconds register.  That's not unheard of but generally the seconds register is the same shape as the bezel opening - especially with watches from this era.

You don't see the Dwight very often and finding one in good shape is even less frequent.  My project watch arrived with one obvious issue - the crown was no longer attached.  The stem broke off at the movement.

The case is actually in decent shape and not overly worn.  It's dirty and could stand a light polish but it's not worn through anywhere to my eye.

The movement inside is a 980, just as you'd expect.  It appears to be in nice shape other than the finger print on the back.  This photo gives you a good idea of the relative size of the Dwight.  It's much wider than most of the models that feature a 14/0 movement.

It's a little hard to tell in the photo but the balance staff is broken and missing a pivot.  So that will need to be replaced.

No surprise that the mainspring has set in a tight coil.  I find that 90% of the time watches from this era are due for a fresh mainspring.

A new glass crystal will be a huge improvement for the aesthetics of this watch.

Everything is clean and dried.  The dial has numbers scratched into the back so I suspect its a very old refinish.  I'll see if some Rodico putty will freshen it up.

The hairspring stud screw came out in the ultrasonic.  These screws are so tiny that I marvel at how precisely made they are.  The best way to reinstall it is with a pin vise.   This specialized tool holds the screw so you can get it started in the hole.  Then a small screw driver can tighten it the rest of the way.

The reassembled movement with a working balance is now ticking away with a good motion.  Time to see how I did with the timing. 

Not too shabby... a slight tweak to the regulator will speed it up nicely.

The crown that came with the watch is the incorrect style.  It would work for a case with a stem tube but the Dwight case has a large opening that is looking for a crown with a dust shroud.  This is probably why it eventually broke the stem.  The only portion of the stem that is supported is in the movement and the crown is so far away from the movement that any uneven pressure from winding will flex and strain the stem.  Eventually it just snaps.  The crown on the right in the photo below will work nicely.  I just need to trim the stem to be the correct length.

Based on the setup, it looks like I need to trim about 1/8" off the end of the stem.  That will bring the crown in closer to the side of the case.  It's a very precise fit and I've found it best to work my way in over several passes rather than trying to cut it in one pass.  If you cut it too short you have to start all over again.

The finished watch looks great with a new glass crystal and proper crown.  The dial cleaned up well thanks to some light work with Rodico putty.  It's not perfect but you'll have some spots too when you're almost 80 years old.

1937 Rutledge

Hamilton produced watches in over a dozen different materials.  Probably the least common was platinum.  Hamilton alloyed platinum with rhodium and later, iridium, which was slightly less expensive.  However, platinum doesn't really polish well so I think the alloy with rhodium or iridium was really intended to give the case a little luster and not so much a cost factor.

Platinum was used in a few models but the two most common, and cataloged, were the Rutledge and the Cambridge.  The former was introduced in 1935 when the "new" 14/0 sized movements were introduced.  The latter replaced the Rutledge when it was discontinued in 1951.  That means the Rutledge had quite the run for a Hamilton model - seventeen years, if you include a slight hiatus for WWII.

In 1935 the Rutledge was priced at $175.  That's about $4,100 in today's currency - a hardy sum considering it was in the middle of the Great Depression.

The price point remained the same in 1937 when my project watch was produced.  It's interesting to see the color of the strap in the catalog... is it gray, brown, or something in between?

The Rutledge was priced at $300 once it returned to the lineup after WWII.  Interestingly, $300 in 1947 is slightly less than $4,100 in today's value so you can see the impact of inflation during the war.

My project watch dates to 1937, based on the engraving on the case back.  Overall it's in very good condition.  Note the model uses female spring bars.  Also note the crown is sticking out from the case - that's a little unusual.  I should recess into the side so I suspect this may be a replacement crown and slightly too large for the recess.

The hands on my project watch are called "alpha" or "pointex" style.  The catalog shows the Rutledge was outfitted with "spear" style hands and my project watch still has a spear second hand.  So these hands are replacements.  That's okay though, by 1951 the Rutledge was outfitted with alpha hands.

The case back has the initials of it's original owner along with the year.  The back has quite a few scratches.  Platinum doesn't polish well so I'm going to leave it as is - it's good honest wear for an almost 90 year old watch.

Fortunately the watch came with female spring bars.  These are actually hard to find.  I'll clean these with the rest of the watch parts.

This dial appears to be original and unmolested.  It's a little dirty but I may be able to spruce it up a bit.

The movement inside is a 982 caliber with 19 jewels, just as it should be.  Later models would get the 982M but before 1940 the 982 was the top of the line.  Based on the serial number, this movement dates to 1937, just as it should.

Notice this movement has a split set bridge and set lever spring.  This is a unique feature of the earliest 14.0 movements. By the late 1930s it would be combined into a single part.

The mainspring still contains a blue steel mainspring.  I have not doubt that it's "set" and has lost the majority of it's strength.

Yup, no surprise here.  The spring is still in a tight coil after it's removed from the barrel.  I'l replace it with a fresh white alloy Dynavar spring.

Everything is cleaned and ready to be reassembled.  Notice how clean the female spring bars are!

Although frozen in time, the watch is ticking away with a nice motion and sitting on the timer.

The timing is not too bad but the amplitude is a little on the low side.  It may come up after it runs for a little while.

I paired the finished project with a nice brown leather strap.  I also shortened the stem a little to bring the crown closer to the case.  I think it looks much better.