1966 Bartley

 Earlier this month I did a post on the 1935 Bartley.  30 years later Hamilton introduced another model with the same name.  There's no resemblance between the two or connection as far as I'm aware.  The latter Bartley was introduced in 1966 and produced through 1969.  It's unusual in that it's one of a few men's models to not feature a second hand.  That was a little more common in the late 1960s. 

The Bartley was presented in a 10K Rolled Gold Plated (RGP) case with a stainless steel back.  It's pretty much an entry level model in the terms of Hamiltons line up but priced at around $70 it wasn't "cheap" .

Based on the catalog, it may be safe to assume that it was presented only on a metal bracelet, as it doesn't mention the option of a strap.

My project watch has been patiently waiting it's trip to the spa.  I've had it for a long time, years in fact.  It's on a bracelet too but it's an aftermarket Speidel and doesn't do much for me other than pull the occasional arm hair - so it will have to go.

Looking closely at the catalog image, my watch has different hands.  That's not entirely unheard of.  It wasn't uncommon for the factory to use what it had available, especially in really busy times of the year like graduation or Christmas time frames.  If you didn't have the catalog to compare to there would be no reason to question the style of the hands, they are very fitting and the proper length.  The minute hand should reach the nearest figure or marker.

The crystal is acrylic and although it doesn't look too bad from the front, from the side there is a lot of internal crazing.  So I'll replace it with a glass crystal that's more fitting.

The dial appears to be original.  It has a nice radial finish with a little wear to the edges where it rubs against the case.  The -SWISS- on the dial is a clue that this model features an imported movement.

Tucked inside the case is a 17 jewel Hamilton 681 movement.  It's based on a A Schild 1200, in case you need to find parts.  Notice the inside of the case back has two sets of numbers.  The upper one with the R is unique to this example and the other one is the model number.  The fact that it ends with 66 implies this model was introduced in 1966.

The dial side of the movement is very simple and has just the basics.

While the movement is being cleaned I will prepare a glass crystal for installation.  The numbers 222 and 222 imply this is a square crystal, no difference between the top/bottom vs the sides.

All the parts and cleaned and ready to be reassembled.  I like the 681, it's a very thin movement and it almost assembles itself.

With the balance reinstalled and the balance jewels secured by the shock spring, the movement is back to ticking away.  It's looking good so far.

Not too shabby at all.  I'll see if I can fine tune it any further.

A tweak here, a tweak there, a little more, a little less - eventually I get it dialed in very nicely.

The new crystal looks great and a nice leather strap completes the restoration of this almost 60 year old watch.  It's a very simple but elegant design, don't you think?

1968 Thinline 6507

 It's been a while since I came across a new model that I haven't done.  This one is a Thinline 6507.  I could have sworn I'd seen one before but, to my surprise, I hadn't.  That's probably because it looks like a lot of other watches.

There are plenty of ubiquitous round models with all numeral dials and at first glance I would guess the Thinline 6507 was just another "sea-something".  It came in a 10K RGP case with a stainless steel back.  I guess what set it apart from the other similar models is it's thin-ness.  Thin was in, in the 1960s.

This model only shows up in the 1968 catalog and, like a lot of models, it didn't make the transition into the 1970s.

My project watch arrived with a request to check it out as it "had been recently serviced'.  It doesn't look very clean to my eye but I was also asked to not polish the case so maybe that's the way the owner likes it to look.

The case back is stainless steel and exhibits the scars of several desperate attempts to open the case.  Fortunately they were not successful, as this is a one piece case and opens through the crystal. 

Tucked inside the case is a Hamilton 639 movement.  This caliber is based on a Buren 280.  Hamilton owned Buren by this time and would move production to Buren's factory in Switzerland in just another year after this watch was made.

Does this look like a recently serviced movement to you?   Me either.  Of course, some people have a different definition of "service".  I know a few ebay sellers who define service as "I put fresh oil where I could reach", which is like putting on new deodorant and calling yourself clean.  You may smell clean but you're still dirty.  This is not a clean movement. 

With the hands and dial removed, the dial-side of the main plate doesn't look recently serviced either.  In fact, I see some minor rust starting to form on the stem and set lever.

My definition of service is to take the movement completely apart and thoroughly clean all the parts to get rid of any old oil, grease or debris inside.  Then put it all back together with fresh lubricants in all the specified wear places.

The reassembled movement is now ticking away with a nice motion.  Notice how much bright and shiny it is now.

It's running a bit slow.  Fortunately it won't take much of an adjustment to bring the beat rate right in line.

There - pretty much right on the money now.

One of the reasons the stem and set lever were rusty is the crown is shot.  I'll install a new one (on the right).  Fortunately I can reuse the female stem hub.

I installed a new crystal but left the case in it's current condition.  It looks great and is now officially "serviced".

1948 Milton

When it comes to describing classic men's watches I think it really depends on the decade in question.  The 1960's was all about stylish round watches like featured in the TV series "Mad Men".  However, the generation that stormed the beaches of Anzio, Normandy, and Iwo Jima wore much smaller watches and often a tank style.

One of my favorite 1940s watches is the 1948 Milton.  It was produced through 1952 and it's design is timeless.  If you didn't know better you might think it was from the 1930s or made into the 1950s.

As introduced in 1948, the Milton was offered in a 14K natural gold filled case with solid 18K applied gold numerals and dots on the dial.  It was priced at $71.50... that's almost $1,000 in today's currency.

By 1952, nothing had changed with the Milton, even the price was the same.

The 19 jewel movement listed in the catalog was the 14/0 sized 982 movement.  At this time the 982M was used in the solid gold models and the 982 was used in 14K gold filled cases.

As I said, I like the Milton.  It has a very simple but elegant design and it's a decent sized watch, even by today's standards... it's not too big and it's not too small.

I've had my project watch waiting in the wings for a while now.  It came on a vintage metal strap with a clasp, not an expansion bracelet.  The crystal on the watch is plastic and a cylinder design with high walls.  I think that has protected the case from wear but this watch looks like its had very little, if any wear at all.

With the bezel removed I can take a closer look at the dial.  As far as I can tell this is the original dial.  The finish on it is perfect.

The inside of the case back has the model name inside - this is probably one of the earliest models to get the name inside the case back.  That's very much a 1950's thing.

The mainspring inside the barrel has set into a tight coil and will have to be replaced.  I find that is the situation with the majority of movements I overhaul from this era.

Everything is cleaned and inspected.  I need to replace the pallet fork, it's missing the lower pivot.  Other than that, this movement is in excellent shape.

The reassembled movement is ticking away thanks to a new pallet fork and white alloy mainspring.  Let's see what the timer thinks.  Based on the serial number, this movement dates the watch to 1950.

Nothing wrong with this movement - it's perfect and I'll leave it right like this.

This watch turned out fantastic.  Even Santa's little helper agrees that this Milton is a keeper.  It's too big for his wrist though, this may have to be a pocket watch for him.

1959 Prudence - Ladies model

I've never counted but I'd wager there are well over 1,000 ladies models - maybe even closer to 2,000 when you consider all the diamond versions. 

The problem with ladies models is they are so small that they all tend to look alike.  That's being a little too critical but, for the most part, it's not too far from the truth.  If you haven't already, I invite you to check out the catalogs posted to this blog and peruse the ladies models.  Once you get to the 1950s it becomes a little out of hand, in my opinion.

There are some notable exceptions, like the ladies models that were designed to compliment the men's model such as the Robert and the Roberta.  I have to admit that those are pretty cool.

One of the criticisms that I have with the ladies cocktail watches is they are so small that it's a challenge to actually tell the time.  I know I'm not alone in that viewpoint as ladies watches do not have a lot of collectors appeal compared to the men's line up unless they are really unique or unusual.

So if you're a lady with a keen eye for value and quality, you can usually have the pick of the litter when it comes to collecting Hamilton ladies models.

What I find interesting is out of the thousand plus ladies models, only a handful actually have a second hand.  The earliest ladies models did but by the 1930s the second hand was gone.  In fact, a second hand didn't show up again until 1948 with the introduction of the Todd, which was also in the men's line up.

Eventually in the late 1950s when Hamilton adopted Swiss-made movements, a few more ladies models with second hands appeared.  One of them is the 1959 Prudence.  It would be produced through 1965.

In 1960 the dial was changed to an all-numeral design.  I don't know if both dials were options, the catalog doesn't say.

In 1963 the bracelet changed and the numeral / marker dial returned.  The price decreased as well.   This was still a $700 watch by today's currency.

And of course, by 1965 the all numeral dial returned and the bracelet price increased .

As you can see in the advertisements, the Prudence was available in 10K gold filled with a stainless steel back.  If you see it in a stainless steel case it's likely the Constance II - they are very similar.

I bought my project watch on a whim simply because it has a second hand and those are so uncommon.  I thought it would be interesting to show.  As received it was missing a crown but I had something I could use and I attached it while the watch waited it's turn in the queue.

The stainless case back unscrews but I'm not sure my tool will go this small.  This case back is about the size of a dime.

To give you the idea of what I'm dealing with, this watch could fit inside the perimeter of a 14/0 size 982 movement.

Opening up the back, you can see the Hamilton 603 movement tucked safely inside.  The HYL on the balance cock is Hamilton's import code for Swiss-made calibers.  Seeing as how small the watch case is and how much room the spacer ring takes up, you can see this is a tiny movement.

Like the larger men's movements, the dial is held on by dial feet secured with screws on the side of the movement.

I can tell this is an ETA movement - the set bridge yoke broke... great.

Piece by piece, I strip all of the parts from the front of the movement.  Everything is the same as with the men's movements, just way smaller.  The balance jewels look huge by comparison.

Now it starts to get interesting.  The order of operations is important here.  First I'll remove the balance jewels and the balance assembly.

The train bridge comes off next.  It secures the 3rd, 4th, and escape wheels.  The 3rd and 4th wheels just lift up and away but the escape wheel must slide out the side.

Another bridge holds the center wheel in place.  I have to remove the barrel bridge too in order to get to the center wheel.  I'll have to remember this sequence when I put it all back together.

Almost there... a few more screws to go.

The last part off is the pallet fork.  Now I can put it all in the cleaner for a while.  My cleaning cycle takes about 25 minutes to complete.

As luck would have it, I actually have a set bridge for a 603 movement in a stash of ladies parts.  That was a fortunate find!   Looking at the logo on the package this would appear to be an FHF or Fabrique d'Horlogerie Fontainemelon movement and not an ETA as I suspected.

Finally, all the parts are cleaned and accounted for - some of these things are tiny and easy to lose.

Well, if you've mastered assembling a Hamilton 748 movement you may want to try your skills (and luck) with getting this movement back together.  Since you can't even see the escape wheel, getting the train bridge back in place is a lesson in patience and tenacity.  Finally, it fell into place and the train wheels spin freely without the pallet in place.  That goes on next.

Well, this watch is now ticking away with a nice motion, let's see what the timer has to say.  The two remaining screws are for the set bridge.  I'll put that on once I confirm the watch is running well.

Not too shabby.  It's running a little fast but I can tweak that.

I'm going to call this good enough.  This movement has a fixed hairspring stud so adjusting the beat error would be a roll of the dice and I think I've used up all of my good luck so far.  As Shrek would say, "That'll do donkey, that'll do".

I removed the old lume and redid the hands and dial so it will glow again.  The second hand has a red arrow tip too - that's very cool.  I put a new baby blue strap on it and it's ready for wrist time - at least for someone with a daintier wrist than mine.