1956 Accumatic "B"

If watches had a family tree, somewhere on the trunk of Hamilton models would be the 1956 Accumatic.  It's the model that contributed the genes that continue to dominate in today's Hamilton model line up.   

The Accumatic line was introduced in 1956 and joined the Automatic K-series line introduced a couple of years earlier.  The Accumatic models utilized movements made by ETA... the same ETA that produces the movements in today's modern Hamilton watches.  All Accumatic A-series models in the 1960's and '70s are decedents of the original Accumatic (and it's sibling, the Accumatic II) introduced in 1956.

Really, if you wanted to be picky, the precursor to the Accumatic was the Illinois Automatic line introduced in 1953... but we don't talk about that part of the family tree very often.

I jest, of course, as the Illinois line quickly became the Hamilton Illinois line which evolved again into the the Hamilton line - and entered the generations of Hamilton models that utilized Swiss-made ébauches.

An ébauche is a fancy way of saying partially complete movement.  Swiss (and other) ébauche makers provided calibers to other watch brands who would complete the movements to their final specs and desires.  Many of the watch brands in the 1950s and 60's competed utilizing the same basic components under the dial.  That's not too unlike today's watch industry but the source of the movements is likely to be the Far East somewhere today.

Anyway - one interesting branch of the Hamilton family tree are the "B" models that feature a power reserve indicator, otherwise known as a wind indicator (as in wind a watch, not a breeze).  The power reserve is the amount of time a watch will run when fully wound and the indicator is a numerical scale that represents potential hours from a full wind all the way back to zero.  I think it's a very interesting complication - and I'm sure a lot of other collectors do too.

Hamilton used "B" models to denote something different when an existing model was changed but continued to be produced.  For example, there are B models when Hamilton switched from the 14/0 sized movements to 12/0 movements and created models like the Boulton B, et al.  

B models were also used when Hamilton switched over from Illinois-branded calibers to Hamilton-branded calibers in the 1956-57 timeframe.  The watches look the same on the outside (for the most part) but the movement inside is different.

The Accumatic was made for three years, starting in 1956.  It was available with white or black dials and dials with all numerals or with luminous markers and numerals.  The case is sometimes referred to as a "flying saucer" design and reminiscent of other models produced over the same timeframe with similar lugs.

The Accumatic "B" was not cataloged so I can't say for certain if it was only produced for a short while or it was an option alongside the regular Accumatic.  I know it's an Accumatic "B" because it says so inside the case.

You can check out the Accumatic II B on this post and it used an Illinois movement, maybe it was just a way to use up excess Illinois inventory?  For example, the 1954 Signamatic B had a power reserve indicator with the same movement.

My project watch arrived in a few pieces but nothing too intimidating.  The power reserve indictor shows about 16 hours remaining in the barrel, but it's not running.  The hour and minute hands don't watch the sword-style hands shown in the catalog but Hamilton was known to use whatever hands they had available, especially during busy seasons like Christmas or graduations.  I love the red tipped second hand, that's always very fun to find.

The case back unscrews and it's clearly marked Hamilton.  No surprises here.

It's a little grungy inside but the case back clearly shows that this is an Accumatic "B".  I've seen Accumatic II "B" cases as well.

One of the parts that came with the watch is a new stem, complete with it's original Hamilton envelope.  That's good to know Hamilton part number 614872 but you could always find the stem using the ETA caliber that the movement is based on.  The movement inside the Accumatic is a Hamilton 672 but it's based on an ETA 1256.

There's a white crown inside the package too so I have pretty much all I need to get this watch back together.

Here's an interesting find.  The rotor is a generic replacement.  Perhaps something happened to the original rotor and a watchmaker way back when ordered a replacement.  It reminds me of the "who's gonna know, they're gonna know" memes you'll often see.  Does it really matter if the rotor / oscillating weight doesn't say Hamilton?  Depends on who you ask, I suppose.

There are no case screws to secure the movement inside the case.  The movement is sandwiched inside a movement ring and the movement ring is secured inside the case by the gasket and case back.  I like this kind of design - it's easy to reassemble.

With the dial and hands out of the way you can start to see the business end of the wind indicator.  It's a mini dial that rotates around the hour wheel.  It's not driven by the hour wheel though.  The wind wheel is connected to the mainspring barrel, as the mainspring barrel unwinds, it rotates the wind indicator.  Three screws secure the bridge that holds all the parts in place.

With the bridge and the wind wheel out of the picture you can start to see the complexity of the power reserve complication.  The small pinion at about 9:00 is driven by a gear on the other side of the main plate that engages the barrel.  That pinion turns the outside of assembly of wheels that rotate the wind wheel.  All of these parts just lift straight off.

The assembly is comprised of several wheels that are a planetary design - they all rotate around the center.  This very cool design allows the inside of the assembly to rotate and increase the wind indicator from 0 to 40 when you wind the watch.  While the watch runs, the outside portion of the assembly will cause the wind indicator to rotate the other direction, from 40 back to zero.  The little spring sticking out of the bridge prevents the wind indicator from going past 40 or 0.  So you can wind and wind and wind the watch manually but the indicator will not go past 40.  If the watch keeps running after it hits zero, it won't go back to 40.

I noticed a couple of interesting things once I remove the wind indicator bits.  The set lever is not attached to the set lever screw.  Maybe that's why there was no stem - the set lever holds the stem in place.  Furthermore, the detent on the yoke is broken.  This part is what you feel pop when you pull the stem into the set position or push it back in to the wind position.  You can see the broken part on the right side of the yoke.

Here's a close up of the broken arm.  This is not unusual and this arm eventually fails from fatigue after 60+ years.

Flipping over to the back of the movement, three screws secure the automatic framework to the movement.

One screw, in the center, secures the framework to the oscillating weight.

Just for fun, I'll wind the watch and see if it runs... it does, and not too bad but the bear error is a little high.  More on that in a bit.

Stripping the parts down to the main plate and you'll notice another gear inside.  This flat gear is driven by the mainspring barrel, but not the outside of the barrel that drives the center wheel.  This gear is held in place by a flat head screw.

Looking at the barrel, the barrel cover has teeth around the center - that's what drives the wind indicator.  The barrel also features a longer arbor that extends well through the main plate to drive the wind indicator.when the watch is wound.

While all the parts are being cleaned I dug out my stash of yokes for this caliber.

Everything is cleaned, dried and ready to be reassembled.

The partially reassembled movement is ticking away with a nice motion.  Notice the TXD on the balance cock.  That's the import code for the Illinois brand.  So this movement is actually an Illinois movement like in my Accumatic II "B" I posted about.

The amplitude has increased and the beat error is 2.7ms.  That's under my personal specs of 3.0ms so I'm going to leave it as.  That's partly because this design has a fixed stud location on the balance cock and the regulator has to be manipulated to get the balance off.  So there's a lot of risk of damaging the hairspring if I attempted to reduce the beat error.  I've learned the hard way that it's best to let sleeping dogs lie.

With the movement running nicely, I can turn my attention to the dial-side of the main plate.  I'll start with adding the new yoke and detent.

Next on are the cannon pinion, minute wheel, hour wheel, setting pinion and the wheel that drives the wind indicator.

A small set bridge covers the minute wheel and set pinion with two tiny screws that are very easy to lose if you're not careful.

The assembly of stacked wheels goes on last before I put the final bridge in place.

Home stretch... the movement is ready for the wind indicator wheel and the dial.  There's a zero indicator on the bridge so I'll drop the wheel in place using the zero for alignment.

Ready for the dial and hands to go in place.

The dial is held in place with two dial foot screws.  The wind indicator is at 28 but that's just because of the position I dropped it in place.  Once I wind the watch fully it will increase to 40 and from there it can run it's way down to zero... hopefully.

I also received a Hamilton 672 oscillating weight to complete the restoration.  That conflicts with the TXD import code but "who's gonna know?". (They're gonna know)

Hands go on last and the movement is ready to go back into the case.

I'm not finished yet, but I still have to trim the new stem to length.

My first attempt is still an 1/8 of an inch long.  This is one of those trim a little, check, trim a little, sort of things.

There - it's perfect.  Time to put the gasket back in place and then seal up the case back.

A new crystal completes the restoration and this watch looks fantastic... just like an almost 70 year old watch out to look.

1962 Thin-o-matic T-452

It's been a while since I had a new model to showcase.  They are getting harder and harder to come by.  Most watch models I haven't seen yet are either rare, super expensive, or didn't stand out against the other models offered at the time.

I recently received a 1962 Thin-o-matic T-452 in need of some TLC.   Based on the number, if you've followed my previous posts you might guess that this model is gold filled (the 4) with a stainless steel back (the 5) and based on the 2 it's the second Thin-o-matic model in gold filled with a stainless back.

The T-452 was produced for three years so if you find one in the wild it could be from 1962, 1963 or 1964.  The only thing that changed over the years was the price - by 1964 it was $95 on a bracelet.  That's equivalent to just under $1000 in today's dollars.  The model is pretty simple looking, in my opinion, and it looks like a lot of other models from the 1960s.  The Thinomatic on the dial helps to identify it.

My project watch presented as dead on arrival.  First impressions are the watch hasn't been serviced in a good while.  Hopefully nothing is broken.  The bracelet is original, that's a nice find.  I'm not sure about the crown, it's marked with an H but it's not flush with the case. It's in the winding position, so either the stem is too long or the crown is too shallow.

The expansion part of the metal bracelet is a little loose but it's also caked with the DNA of whoever wore this watch until it stopped working.  Perhaps it will regain some spring once it's cleaned up a bit.

The case back is stainless steel - if you didn't know what model it was, that would be a good clue to aid in identification... it would be a T45-something.  I don't see any obvious way to open the case so I suspect this model opens through the crystal.

With the crystal out of the way I can confirm that this watch opens through the crystal.  I'll use a small lever to carefully pry the crown out and separate the two-piece stem.

Oh snap!  Literally and figuratively, the stem didn't separate - it broke, leaving the threaded portion in the crown.  You can see the male and female sides are still joined.  That's a first for me.  Now I'll need to replace the crown and get a new female stem.

The movement is a 17 jewel 620 caliber based on a Buren 1005.  The balance moves but the rest of the movement doesn't.

There are no service marks inside the case which makes me wonder if I'm the first person to clean this watch in the last 60 years?  Based on the length of the stem tube sticking out of the side, there's no way this watch had a flush crown like the catalog image seems to suggest.

Everything is disassembled and cleaned.  That's easier said than done with this movement, there are a LOT of parts to separate.  I quickly realized this movement was very gummed up inside.  It's nice and clean now though.

Piece by piece, the movement goes back together with fresh lubricants and once the balance goes into place, the watch comes back to life.  It has a nice motion so the next step is to let the timer listen to the ticking.

Nothing wrong with this movement - it's ticking away a smidgeon fast but it will likely settle down after a while.  The amplitude and beat error look great.

A new crown and crystal completes the restoration.  This watch is now ready for wrist time.  The bracelet responded fairly well to the cleaning.  It still a little loose but not as bad as it was.  I know some enthusiasts are really into restoring bracelets but it's not my thing and I don't have the tools to take it on.  I'm more of a nice-strap kind of guy.

1953 Carl

 If Forrest Gump was into vintage Hamiltons he would have said, "Old watches are like a box of chocolates, you never know what you're going to get".

I was recently asked to take on a project watch and my first instincts were, "this isn't going to be good".

Here's the before photo...

I've learned to be suspicious when a watch shows up in multiple parts.  My instincts tell me I could be walking in someone else's footsteps.  However, you never really know until you get into the thick of it.

Tucked inside the plastic cases are the earthly remains of a 1953 Hamilton Carl.  The Carl was produced for three years and was available on a strap or with a specially paired bracelet.

The case of the Carl is distinctive with prong-shaped lugs that flair out to the side.  The dial has a two-toned finished with markers as well as numerals at 12.

The Carl was also paired with a matching ladies model, aptly named the Carlotta.  It also had prong-shaped details that incorporated the corded bracelet.

As I said, inside the two plastic containers were all the bits you'd expect to make up a Carl.  Why is it in pieces?

Popping the movement out of the case back, the lettering inside makes identifying the model easy - Carl is written right inside.

The Carl came in a 10K gold filled case and tradition would have outfitted it with a 17 jewel 752 movement.  However, the model was upgraded to a 19 jewel 753 movement for some reason.  Typically that caliber would have gone into a 14K gold filled model.

This movement looks to be in decent shape but it's not running and the balance looks wobbly... definitely not a good sign.

The dial doesn't appear to have a two-tone finish and the back of it has numbers scratched in.  So this is definitely a refinished dial.  I was asked specifically to see what I could do to clean the dial up but I'll have to be very careful.  Refinished dials will often not respond well to cleaning.

One of the pivots on the balance staff is bent and the other is missing so this movement will require a balance staff replacement - a very tedious and stressful intervention.

Something fishy is going on - I can't get the front to mesh with the back.  It's as if the front is a different shape.  Was this watch stepped on or otherwise damaged?  I'll worry about that after I address the movement.

Everything is cleaned and ready to be reassembled.  Hopefully the balance will do it's thing.  I was able to get the dial cleaned up a little but the finish is compromised and any further attempts will completely ruin it.

The reassembled movement is ticking away with a vigorous motion - that's a good sign.

Ooof!  It's running a bit slow and has a pretty high beat error.  I wonder what's going on?

Ah, not to worry, the hairspring fell out of the regulator pins and was out of position.  Repositioning the hairspring between the regulator pins brought the timing right into spec.  Looks great!

A tweak here, a tweak there, and I think I finally have the case back together again.  The bezel was definitely bent out of shape somehow.  The crystal that came with the package does not fit properly.  Hopefully it's the wrong shape and the bezel isn't damaged to the point that a replacement crystal won't fit either.  I'll have to order a new crystal and take my chances... vintage watches are like a box of chocolates, you know.