1966 Accumatic A-654

Some Hamilton models were only available on a bracelet (like the Palisade) and if the bracelet failed you had to find strap.  Other models look like they were designed to best go with a bracelet, but were also sold on a strap.  I think of several good examples, but one of them is the 1966 Accumatic A-654.  As you'll see, it has a very interesting case that would integrate nicely with a matching bracelet.

The A-654 was only listed in the 1966 / 67 catalog so it's either a one-year wonder or was made for two years.  Someone would have to find a 1967 catalog to prove one way or the other.  It's the only catalog I've not come across.

The model came in a 10K RGP case with a stainless steel back.  Bezel has a florentine finish with bright finished walls at the hour marks, two at the 12 position.  The matching bracelet also have a florentine finish with bright finished edges - so I'm sure it's a very striking combination.

My project watch arrived with an aftermarket one-size-ruins-all bracelet with spring loaded ends.  These bracelets tend to wear grooves in the inside of the lugs of the case after a while.  I definitely do not recommend them, although you can trim the ends to not have so much force pushing on the lugs.  I'm more of a strap guy anyway, if I'm being honest.

Ignoring the bracelet, the rest of the watch looks to be in great shape - other than the fact that it's not running.  It doesn't take much to stop a watch from ticking.  Even the second hand touching the inside of the crystal or the minute hand will stop a watch. If a watch is not regularly cleaned and oiled, the oil inside will eventually evaporate and turn into a gel.  That will also prevent a watch from running - but it's better than running a watch without oil, as that will wear the delicate parts out.

Hopefully all this watch needs is a good cleaning on the inside.

The first order of business is to remove the bracelet.  This. model has a stainless steel back and it's always good to inspect it to see if it's removable or if the case is a one-piece design.  Sometimes it's hard to say without close inspection.

I removed the crystal and could see that this is a one-piece case.  That means the stem has two parts and you can separate the crown-side from the case with a special pry tool.  Now the movement with lift straight out.

Like the majority of Accumatic models, this one has a 17 jewel 689A automatic movement inside.  The 689A was made by ETA and getting parts for these is still pretty easy.  Plus, ETA movements have a very strong family resemblance and even the ETA movements that power today's modern Hamilton watches are descendants of this caliber.

This movement was definitely a little gummed up inside and a few of screws where in the wrong holes but now that's it's been cleaned and dried, I should be able to put it all back together in proper order.

The reassembled movement came back to life and went onto the timer.  Based on what I see, this watch is running great.  Although the beat error of 1.1ms is well within my usual specs, this movement is so easy to fine tune that I'd feel guilty leaving it anywhere other than perfect.

This movement has an adjustable balance cock so I can move the hairspring stud and rotate the balance relative to the pallet fork.  Moving in the wrong direction will make the beat error worse but going the correct direction will reduce it.  It won't take much of a tweak to lower it, assuming I go the correct direction.

I chose wisely and now the beat error is right on the money.  I'll leave the watch running a smidgeon fast, it should settle down after a while.

The finished watch is back together and looks a good as it runs.  Now to see about a strap.

1935 Bartley (Bartlett)

Hamilton introduced the 14/0 sized movements used for the newly design tank models in 1935.  These new calibers were used in all of the narrow and long models.  The 17 jewel 980 movement was used in the gold filled models and the 19 jewel 982 movement was used in the solid gold and platinum models.

There were lots of options for folks looking for a new watch.  Not only were there a variety of models, most models had at least two different dial patterns to choose from.

One of the inaugural models was the 1935 Bartley.  In some references it's called the Bartlett but for the two years it was catalogued it was shown at the Bartley.

The Bartley came in a 14K gold filled case in yellow.  The portion of the bezel above and below the crystal is mirror lapped and intended to be highly polished.  You could get the Bartley with an applied gold marker dial, as shown in the catalog or with an applied gold numeral dial, or even with a black enamel dial.  The latter was the least expensive but is arguably more desirable to collectors today.

$55 doesn't seem like a lot of money today but in 1935 at the height of the Great Depression, that was the equivalent of over $1,300 in today's value.  So the Bartley was not an inexpensive watch by any standard.

My project watch is actually very nice.  This model is very prone to wear on the corners of the bezel and this watch shows some minor wear but once it's cleaned it should look fantastic.  The bracelet is obviously very old but it wasn't original to the watch.  Bracelets were not unheard of but the a leather strap was much more in fashion in the 1930s.

Looking closely at the crystal, I can see the upper right has cracked and let some moisture inside.

The case back looks great too - I don't think this watch has had too much of a difficult life.  The bracelet shows a lot more wear than the watch case does.

With the bezel lifted off, I can immediately tell this is a refinished dial.  The little notch by the crown is an obvious tell.  These white dials from the 1930s can be refinished to look like new and a lot of collectors with "original dials" probably have an old refinished dial.  It was common practice for Hamilton to refinish the dials of any watch that came in for service.

Here's a surprise, this movement is the correct caliber but the serial number dates it to 1946.  So this movement is likely a replacement.  Perhaps the watch was sent to Hamilton for repair in the 1940s or a prior watchmaker replaced what was originally inside.  As long the movement is correct for the model, I don't really see an issue.  Perhaps if the movement was older than the model should be, then I might give pause but in this case, there are any number of legitimate reasons to see a new replacement.

It's hard to tell with the lighting in my shop but there are easily 10 different prior service marks inside the case back.  This watch has been very well maintained.

The dial-side of the movement is in good shape and otherwise unremarkable.  It looks just as you'd expect.

A new glass crystal is definitely in order and I'll get it ready for installation while all the parts clean in the ultrasonic.

With the crystal and the bezel in the sunlight to cure the UV glue, the rest of the watch is ready to be reassembled.

Piece by piece the movement goes back together.  Once the mainspring is wound up the balance springs back to life with a vigorous motion.

Nothing wrong with this timekeeping, everything looks great.  It should slow down a little after everything settles in.

A nice leather strap in black completes the restoration.  I was able to clean most of the grime off the dial but there's still a little silhouette of moisture damage around the 1 and the 12.  My photo really magnifies the watch.  In real life the watch looks much better.  This is an above average example of the Bartley, I don't see an major wear through to the corners, do you?

 

1958 Drummond

The Hamilton Watch Company didn't just make watches, well, at least not in its later years.  Hamilton made an interesting variety of precision things, including fuses for the military.  You will also find clocks made by Hamilton, mostly in the 1960s or later.

A long time ago I purchased a Hamilton clock with very mid century modern lines.  It's about 8 inches square.  It caught my eye because the raised gold numerals are very reminiscent of Hamilton's watches.  Unfortunately I was never able to get it to work properly but at least it's correct two times a day.  

The bold H logo that Hamilton used is often attributed to the Huguenin Freres - a Swiss watch company that Hamilton purchased in the late 1950s.  Interestingly, I think it may be the other way around.  The earliest use of the stylized H logo that I've seen came from the June 1956 Timely Topics newsletter issued by the Hamilton Watch Company.  I believe Huguenin watches started to use this stylized logo on their watches after the acquisition.

One watch that could have definitely inspired the mantle clock is the 1958 Drummond.   This mid-grade model was produced through 1962 and features a US-made 17 jewel 8/0 sized movement, the 730 caliber.  It features a 10K yellow gold filled bezel with a stainless steel back.  In 1958 and 59 you could purchase the watch on a strap or on a bracelet with lizard insterts.

In 1960 the bracelet was switched to a different style and the price increased slightly.  This bracelet option continued through 1962.

The Drummond is a very simple but elegant design.  The sterling silver dial features solid 14K sans serif  numerals.

My Drummond project watch is in the typical "as found in the drawer" condition... no strap and a thin layer of funk around the edges.  The crystal is a bit scratched and the dial has some spotting around the perimeter but nothing too distracting.  You'll have spots too when you're pushing 70 years old.

The stainless steel back snaps onto the bezel cleanly and protects the movement tucked inside.

The 17 jewel 730 movement is an upgraded version of the 747 movement introduced in the 1940s.  The 730 came out in 1955 and features shock protection for the balance staff - otherwise everything else is interchangeable with the 747.  The 730 would evolve again in the early 1960s and become the 731 with a glucydur balance without any timing weights.  The 770 movement eventually got a glucydur balance too but it's caliber didn't change.  I've always thought that was interesting.  I wonder what drove the model number changes - was it just marketing?

While all the parts are in the ultrasonic I will prep a new glass crystal for installation.  There's a lot that goes into crystals and you usually have to go a little shaping with wet sandpaper to fine tune them for the bezel opening.

Everything has been cleaned and dried.  I enjoy working on the 730 movement.  It doesn't get the same amount of love that 770 movement gets but I find it a very satisfying movement to work on - it goes back together very easily.

The reassembled movement is ticking away with a nice motion - let's see what the timer has to say.

That's not too shabby - I was tweak the beat rate down a smidgeon but this watch is looking great otherwise.

A nice genuine leather strap completes the restoration of this fine Hamilton watch.  It's ready for another 70 years of use.

1961 Bentley

I like Hamilton produced a full line of models in the 1960s - literally over 120 different models in the men's lineup.  There was something for everyone, it would appear.  

The watch market was extremely competitive at this time.  In fact, by this point Hamilton had diversified into other industries and watches was just a portion of the their business.  By the end of the 1960s watches accounted for just over half of Hamilton revenue.

Hamilton marketed watches at a variety of price points from entry levels for fine watches to ultra-expensive.  Some models didn't even have published prices in the catalogs.  One of the attributes that made even a mid-grade watch "fine" was the quality of the materials.  Entry level models had stainless steel cases or cases with rolled gold plated bezels.  Mid tier models offered gold filled cases.  High end models had solid gold cases and diamonds.  Some models even had solid gold bracelets!

The quality of dials could vary by price point as well but most mid-grade or higher models still featured sterling silver dials with solid gold markers or numerals.

A good example of a mid-grade model is the 1961 Bentley.  It represented the second time Hamilton used that name, the earlier time being in the 1930s.  The latter Bently was produced for four years.  It featured a 10K gold filled case with a two-tone sterling silver dial outfitted with solid 14K numerals and markers.  It's a very nice men's dress watch.

The model was available on a either a bracelet or a strap.  I can't tell from the catalog ad if it's presented on the bracelet or on the strap.  I suspect it's a mesh bracelet but I could be wrong.  In 1963 the bracelet was changed to another, less expensive, design.  So if you're one of those crazy "watches on original bracelet" collectors, there are two designs to look for.

I've had my project watch waiting for quite a while.  It appears to be in good shape but definitely could stand a good cleaning.

The inside of the case back is clearly marked Hamilton W. Co. Lancaster PA - this is what you should always see in a 1940s through 1960s watch.  If you see just 14K or something like that, it's not an authentic model.  ALWAYS check the case back when you're thinking of buying a Hamilton online.

The movement tucked inside is the 22 jewel 12/0 sized 770 movement.  This caliber was the pride of the fleet in Hamilton's factory - although I think the 8/0 sized 730 and 735 calibers are great too.

I neglected to take the usual fully disassembled movement picture but the fully cleaned and reassembled movement is now ticking away with a nice motion.

It's running a smidgeon fast but the other aspects look good.

A tweak here, a tweak there, a tweak back a smidge... eventually I get the beat rate to just a little fast.  I find newly overhauled watches settle a little after running a while.

A new strap completes the restoration and this dress watch is ready for some more wrist time.

1955 Automatic K-454 (Sputnik)

If you were a watch designer you had a lot of opportunity to be creative.  Obviously you had the shape of the case to play with, but you could also utilize the strap or bracelet, the shape of the bezel opening, the material of construction, the design of the crystal, the dial, and even the hands to play with.  For example, Electric models often has a special second hand with with lightening bolt incorporated. 

Of course, traditional fashion could dictate the rules a designer might adhere to.  After all, the design had to appeal to customers to a degree that enough watches would be sold to justify the design.

In fair balance, all the watches couldn't look the same, or even look like every other watch brand's line up, otherwise it would just be a matter of price (which eventually became the situation).

The 1950s must have been a fun period for Hamilton designers.  They has a lot of models to work with.  To put it in perspective, in 1935 there were 23 wrist watches in the model line up.  Twenty years later there would be 88, and it would continue to grow for the next 15 years!

One of the 88 models offered in 1955 is the Automatic K-454.  It's a very popular model and you'll see why.  It was offered for three years.  It features a 10K gold filled bezel and a stainless steel back.

The K-454 is also known as the Sputnik to watch collectors.  The Sputnik was a Russian satellite launched in 1957 that featured four prominent antennas protruding from a round sphere.  The K-454 design featured four golden arms radiating from the center of the dial at the 1, 5, 7 and 11 positions that continued out the bezel as the lugs for the bracelet or strap.  The other hours had less prominent lines radiating outward.

It's a great design.

My project watch is well worn and definitely in need of some love.  I can see the crystal has a crack but otherwise it's not too bad.  The watch is not running.  The lugs on this model are fairly delicate and easily bent out of shape.  It's not unusual for one of them to be missing so you have to be very careful not to damage them.

The case back is typical for an Automatic K-model and unscrews from the bezel with a case wrench.

The Automatic K-series used three four different movements but the predominant caliber is the 661.  This movement was made by Kurth Freres (Certina) and was used in other watch brands as well.  The inside of the case back helps to identify the model.  This movement is in good shape.  The only issue I see is there's a screw missing from the train bridge (the empty hole next to the stem).  That will be easy to replace.

The dial and hands are in nice shape.  The hands and hour markers are luminous.

I found some rust under the winding wheel.  It's not too bad and it's a good thing this watch is being serviced.

I'll measure the old crystal to get an idea of what size crystal to install.

Everything is cleaned and ready to be reassembled.  I actually found the missing screw inside the movement.  That's most likely why the watch was not working - it would easily stop the movement if it got into the right place.  I have all the parts to reassemble the movement.

The basics of the movement are back together and the balance is ticking away with a nice motion.  Check out how much shinier everything is now that it's cleaned.

Not too shabby performance for an 70 year old watch.

Two case screws and braces secure the movement to the inside of the case and it's ready to close up.

The finished watch is a huge improvement over what I started with.  A new crystal and deep cleaning goes a long way.  I also relumed the hands and dial markers.  This watch is ready for more wrist time.