Some Hamilton models were only available on a bracelet (like the Palisade) and if the bracelet failed you had to find strap. Other models look like they were designed to best go with a bracelet, but were also sold on a strap. I think of several good examples, but one of them is the 1966 Accumatic A-654. As you'll see, it has a very interesting case that would integrate nicely with a matching bracelet.
The A-654 was only listed in the 1966 / 67 catalog so it's either a one-year wonder or was made for two years. Someone would have to find a 1967 catalog to prove one way or the other. It's the only catalog I've not come across.
The model came in a 10K RGP case with a stainless steel back. Bezel has a florentine finish with bright finished walls at the hour marks, two at the 12 position. The matching bracelet also have a florentine finish with bright finished edges - so I'm sure it's a very striking combination.
My project watch arrived with an aftermarket one-size-ruins-all bracelet with spring loaded ends. These bracelets tend to wear grooves in the inside of the lugs of the case after a while. I definitely do not recommend them, although you can trim the ends to not have so much force pushing on the lugs. I'm more of a strap guy anyway, if I'm being honest.
Ignoring the bracelet, the rest of the watch looks to be in great shape - other than the fact that it's not running. It doesn't take much to stop a watch from ticking. Even the second hand touching the inside of the crystal or the minute hand will stop a watch. If a watch is not regularly cleaned and oiled, the oil inside will eventually evaporate and turn into a gel. That will also prevent a watch from running - but it's better than running a watch without oil, as that will wear the delicate parts out.
Hopefully all this watch needs is a good cleaning on the inside.
The first order of business is to remove the bracelet. This. model has a stainless steel back and it's always good to inspect it to see if it's removable or if the case is a one-piece design. Sometimes it's hard to say without close inspection.
I removed the crystal and could see that this is a one-piece case. That means the stem has two parts and you can separate the crown-side from the case with a special pry tool. Now the movement with lift straight out.
Like the majority of Accumatic models, this one has a 17 jewel 689A automatic movement inside. The 689A was made by ETA and getting parts for these is still pretty easy. Plus, ETA movements have a very strong family resemblance and even the ETA movements that power today's modern Hamilton watches are descendants of this caliber.
This movement was definitely a little gummed up inside and a few of screws where in the wrong holes but now that's it's been cleaned and dried, I should be able to put it all back together in proper order.
The reassembled movement came back to life and went onto the timer. Based on what I see, this watch is running great. Although the beat error of 1.1ms is well within my usual specs, this movement is so easy to fine tune that I'd feel guilty leaving it anywhere other than perfect.
This movement has an adjustable balance cock so I can move the hairspring stud and rotate the balance relative to the pallet fork. Moving in the wrong direction will make the beat error worse but going the correct direction will reduce it. It won't take much of a tweak to lower it, assuming I go the correct direction.
I chose wisely and now the beat error is right on the money. I'll leave the watch running a smidgeon fast, it should settle down after a while.
The finished watch is back together and looks a good as it runs. Now to see about a strap.
Here's a photo of the original bracelet from JB Champion, in case you want to find one.
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