1963 Thin-o-Matic T-204

One of these days I'm going to have to count how many models I've captured for the blog.  There are just under 1,000 mechanical models and I've done at least 650 of them by now.  It's hard to believe I started this blog in 2012 and here it is 14 years later.  I've still got a ways to go to document all of them and I'm sure that I never will - as there are a quite a few "above my pay grade" as the saying goes.  Regardless, each new model is a fun accomplishment.

My latest new addition was only produced for a couple of years.  It's a 1963 Thin-o-matic T-204.  Originally offered in 1963, it was also marketed in the 1964 catalog for $160 - a real bargain, in my opinion.  Cased in solid 14K gold, it was priced at about $1,750 when adjusted for inflation.  Try finding a solid 14K gold watch in today's jewelers for anywhere near that price.

It's interesting to note that some models were intended to be worn solely on a strap.  Other times, a model could be presented on a bracelet that echoed or, at least, complemented the design, as well as the option of a strap.  The T-204 was offered with what appears to have been a large tile alligator (or croc) strap, and I'm sure it looked great.

The case is an interesting design.  I'm not sure how to best describe the shape.  Certainly the bezel opening is a circle and the knurled detail around the opening is also round.  The swooping lugs and flat portion for the strap seem to offer a barrel shape as well.  Usually I default to the bezel opening and I'd call this a round, or circular, design.

The case back is very flat, indicative of the type of movement you'll find inside.  The case back gives the impression this might be a two-piece design, where the case back might snap onto the bezel.  You'd be forgiven for thinking that, and based on a couple of prior case knife marks, it looks like someone has tried to open it a time or two.

Alas, this is a one-piece design and the movement is accessed through the crystal.  Interestingly, the watch has a presentation from October, 1962.  The new model year started in the Fall of the prior year so this watch was newly introduced in October of 1962.

The dial is an interesting textured, or linen design.  It's also not a luminous pattern.  You can see there's been some moisture intrusion that has compromised the finish.  Unfortunately, it's been my experience that these dial never get refinished as well as you'd like.  So there's not much I can do with this dial other than see if I can brighten up the solid gold hour markers.  

By the way, the hour marker at the 9 position is a a replacement... it doesn't match the other markers at 12, 3, and 6.  I'll have to look in my stash of old dials to see if I have a better match.

The inside of the case back shows the service marks of at least four prior watchmakers.  It also shows a the tell-tale rub mark of a micro-rotor movement.

Tucked inside the case is a 17 jewel 663 movement, along with a movement ring.  There does not appear to be any rust on the back - that's a promising sign.  However, the male stem sticking out of the movement is quite rusted.

The female side of the stem is retained in the crown.  It too is rusted and between the two halves, they've lost their grasp on each other.  When you pull the crown out to set the time, the crown will come completely out.  They are intended to separate, but not that easily - so I'll have to replace them.

And therein lies the rub... these movements use a special stem and the parts are getting very hard to find.  ETA movements are not as bad but these older Buren calibers are a different story.  Fortunately, I think I have the required parts on hand - otherwise this watch could have been unrepairable.

I this shot you can see the male-side of the stem.  Between this side, and the female fork-side, the two sections are meant to snap together and hold fast.

Here's s shot of a the new parts.  I'll have to trim the female side to the correct length.  I get one shot - If I screw it up, I won't be able to fix the watch.

Everything is disassembled and thoroughly cleaned.  So far, so good.  Now I just have to put it back together again.

Piece by piece, all the parts are reassembled and with a little tension applied to the mainspring, the watch ticks back to life.  Now to listen to the ticking to see how it's running.

Not too shabby - the mainspring isn't fully wound so the amplitude is a little low but everything is looking fine.  Adjusting the beat error on this watch is very tricky and the added juice is not worth the squeeze of trying to reduce it.  I could just as easily ruin the hairspring.  This beat error is well within my personal specs of 3.0ms... it may even improve after it runs a while.

I noticed during the cleaning that there's a rub mark on the automatic framework, caused by the motion of the oscillating weight.  When I went to reinstall the weight, I could see that it would hang up in this area.  That implies either the rotor is bent or there's been too much wear over the years.  I'll have to replace the framework and rotor arbor.

I saved the worst challenge for last - now I have to trim the new female stem hub to the correct length.

I left my first attempt a little long, just to make sure I didn't overshoot the mark.  Now I can whittle my way to (hopefully) a perfect fit.

The finished watch looks fantastic after a trip to the spa.  A new crystal helps complete the restored look and the best part is the crown won't easily fall off like it did before.  This watch is now ready for another few years of confident wrist time.