1938 Gilman

I recently did a post on a 1940s Martin that was outfitted with an early 1930s movement.  That's pretty unusual for sure.  However, taken in the context of the time period, is it really?  We're talking the end of the Great Depression and a world at war.  If you were lucky to have a fine watch, you probably didn't have two.  Getting it repaired to work properly was probably more important than having it entirely correct for a future collector.

My next project could probably tell a similar tale.  It's a Hamilton Gilman - a super nice solid gold model that was introduced in 1938 and made through 1946.

If it looks familiar, it could be due to the close resemblance to the 1938 Dickens produced at the same time.  However, the Gilman is a little larger and cased in solid gold, so it cost about double the price of a Dickens.  The Gilman was equivalent to almost $2,400 when adjusted for inflation.

The Gilman spans the year 1940 so you will likely see one of two movements inside, based on the year.  Prior to 1940 solid gold models received the 19 jewel 982 movement, while the gold filled models were outfitted with the 17 jewel 980.  In 1940 the premier 982M (as in medallion) movement was introduced and solid gold models received the 982M.  That enabled the 14K gold filled models to receive the 982 and 10K gold filled models were powered by the 980.  The 982M and 982 used all the same parts but the fit and finish of the 982M was produced to tighter tolerances.  Given the choice between a 982 and a 982M, I'd probably prefer the 982M because it's prettier to look at.  However, it really doesn't matter too much.

My project watch could tell a few stories, I suspect.  It's not running and it came presented on a solid gold mesh bracelet with an engraving on the clasp from 1948.  It would appear to have been awarded to a fireman.

The upper left of the bezel appears to have a prior repair from damage at some point.  I restored another Gilman in 2014 with a similar issue and the nice thing about solid gold models is they can be fixed by a talented jeweler.

The case back snaps on firmly and looks great.  It has a slight dent near the crown but otherwise is unremarkable.

Well this is interesting... the nicely damascened movement inside is a 980 caliber.  So this is an obvious replacement.  Looking at the serial number, it was produced in 1949.

Check out the back of the dial... I would wager that the original movement was a rusty mess.  It was probably easier to replace the movement than it was to repair what was damaged.

The front of the 980 movement is defect-free so the rust on the dial definitely didn't come from this movement.  What's different between the 980 and 982 (or 982M)?  Simple... two extra jewels that cover the escape wheel pivots.  All of the other parts are the same and interchangeable between the calibers.  So unless this watch was supposed to go into a museum, I wouldn't stress too much over it not having the correct grade movement inside.  It's just a part of this watch's story.  Maybe you could make up a heroic tale like the movement was damaged after rescuing six orphans from a fire in 1949.

The barrel already contains a white alloy Dynavar spring so that's a nice find.

All the parts are cleaned and readied to be reassembled.  The backside of the large ratchet wheel shows some prior rust but there's none on the barrel bridge.. kind of makes you wonder but there's no concern.  It's a good reminder to always keep vintage watches away from water and if you get them wet, you probably should get them serviced.

Assembling the 14/0 movements like the 980 can be a challenge for new watchmakers, especially getting the train bridge to seat properly.  Getting the three pivots lined up can be a challenge if you don't have a gentle touch and a lot of patience.  Once you get all the wheels aligned, they should spin freely and then you can install the pallet fork. 

At this point the movement is back in running order and has a good motion.  Lets see what the timer has to say.

The timer agrees that this watch is running great.  Reducing the beat error to zero would be a nice finishing touch but it's also a great way to screw up a nicely running movement.  The added juice just isn't worth the squeeze, in my experience.

A slight polish to the metal and the plastic crystal and this watch is looking as good as it runs.  Replacing the crystal with a proper glass crystal would be a nice improvement but plastic has it's place sometimes - at least scratches can be polished off plastic.

What's your opinion... should this watch have a 982M inside or is the 980 good to go?