1961 Stormking IX

There are twelve Stormking models in Hamilton's lineup and if you managed to locate an example of each one you would assemble a very nice mini-collection.  You'd have to be very persistent though because a couple of them as super-rare.  In fact, you'd have as much chance of assembling a complete Stormking collection as you do of landing all of the CLD models.  It's tough to do, but it's sure fun to try.

Well here's another checkmark for the Stormking line... a 1961 Stormking IX.  It was made for only two years.

Stormkings come is stainless steel, gold filled, and solid gold in 10, 14 and even 18K gold.  That's probably why some of them are so hard to come by.

The Stormking IX is one of the 14K solid gold models.  It comes in a one-piece case with a sterling silver dial and features solid 14K numerals and markers.

Tucked behind the dial is the 8/0 sized 735 movement with 18 jewels.  This high grade movement is based on the older 748 movement from the 1940's but offers shock jewels to protect the balance staff.

My Stormking IX project watch arrived in very nice shape.  My merciless camera makes it look a little worse than it first appeared to be.  I think a new crystal is all this watch will need after I overhaul the movement.

The back of the case has three nicely done initials.

If you look closely, you'll see the 3 o'clock marker is missing in action.  Luckily I found it next to the 10 o'clock marker.

The 735 is a nice movement but it's an intimidating movement to overhaul.  It's very easy to take apart but reassembling it can drive you to distraction.  It has a train bridge that must accommodate four pivots at the same time and the arbors for each wheel are very long so they are extremely tricky to get lined up at the same time.  This style of movement is very interesting because it has an extra wheel... a 5th wheel that goes between the 4th wheel (that drives the second hand) and the escape wheel.

Before I tackle the movement I will reinstall the loose hour marker.  You can see there are two posts on the back of the marker.  Each applied gold device is riveted to the dial so all I need to do is line up the posts of the marker with the holes in the dial and then press the marker in place.

The back of the dial is ground down a little to hold the markers in place.  I like to put a dollop of UV glue over the holes on the back of the dial to lock the loose marker in place.

The one-piece case is typical of other one-piece designs and uses a two-part stem.

While all the parts are bing cleaned, I'll get out a new crystal to install after everything is reassembled.

Everything is cleaned and ready to be put back together.

It took a few minutes to get the train bridge to drop into place but once everything is lined up the bridge will seat itself.  So if it's not seated you know something is not right.  You might be tempted to force it but that will result in a broken escape wheel or 5th wheel pivot.  The movement is now running briskly so next  I'll see what it looks like on the timer.

6 seconds fast per day... low beat error and nice amplitude... not too shabby.

A new crystal and a fresh genuine croc strap complete the restoration.  This is a sharp looking watch... the radial finished dial is original and the Hamilton logo is very interesting.  You don't see this style of serif-font very often.

1956 Accumatic II

Hamilton's first Automatic watches where the Hamilton Illinois brand in 1953.  Shortly thereafter the Automatic K-series was introduced in the Hamilton line of watches.  Illinois branded models were only produced for a couple of years and in 1956 the Accumatic line arrived on the scene.

The early Accumatics shared a lot in common with the Illinois automatic models.  Both lines ran ETA 1256-based movements.  The 1256 was capable of all sorts of bells and whistles including a date complication as well as a wind indicator.

One of the first Accumatics was the Accumatic II.  It was introduced in 1956 and produced for three years.

The Accumatic II was a little less expensive than the K-series models, mainly due to the rolled gold case.  The white dial with embossed gold-colored numerals and markers came in only one pattern.

I've seen Accumatic II's with a wind indicator, although the option wasn't shown in the catalogs.  It would have a little window under the Hamilton name on the dial with numbers from 0-40 visible, depending on how much the watch was wound.  That was available in the Signamatic line of the Hamilton Illinois models and I suspect Hamilton used excess movements up in the Accumatic II after the Illinois line was dropped.  That's just an educated guess though.

You don't tend to see the Accumatic II very often and I recently had the opportunity to buy one.  It seemed to be in good shape but was sold to me in non-running condition.  Other than a little bit of wear through to the side of the case by the 9, it was in very nice shape... on the outside, anyway.

The stainless steel back unscrews from the gold filled bezel.  These case backs can often be a real bear to open but I was able to break this one free without too much difficulty.

The movement inside looks bright and shiny but I can tell it's been a while since it was last serviced.  There's no obvious reason why it's not running though.

Everything gets completely taken apart and thoroughly cleaned.  Now things look really shiny.

The reassembled movement is now running but only a timer will tell me how well it's running.

Oh snap!  This shot gun pattern on the timer means there's a lot of noise inside the balance.  I'll have to look very closely at the hairspring to make sure it's not messed up somehow.

It took a lot of fussing and although I got it to run eventually it was running with low amplitude (160 degrees), so I decided to swap the balance with one from a spare 672 donor.  Now it's running much better... just a little fast but I tend to leave them like this as movements tend to settle a little over time.

Before I seal up the watch I will add my mark to the long list of prior watchmakers who have serviced this watch.  There are about a dozen marks inside the case back.

A new lizard grain strap and fresh crystal complete the restoration.  This is a sharp looking watch now and is running great.  Another fine watch is saved.

1954 Tracy

I've done so many 1960's models recently that it seems like a long time since I've done a classic American-made Hamilton watch.

Proportionately there are more watch models in the 1950's and 1960's than the other decades and a high proportion of the models in the 1950's and 1960's have Swiss-made movements.  However, Hamilton produced it's own movements in Lancaster up until 1969, when manufacturing was moved officially to Hamilton's factories in Switzerland.

One of the mid-1950's American-made models was the Tracy.  It was produced from 1954 through 1956.

The Tracy is a good example of Hamilton's evolving design aesthetics.  The dial is sterling silver with solid 18K gold numerals - a traditional element dating back to the early 1930's.   The gold filled case, on the other hand, is sharply angular and pointed and reminiscent of the trend of cars with fins, etc.

The Tracy is also an interesting model because it spans movements but doesn't have a -B model.  The earliest Tracys received Hamiltons 8/0 sized 17 jewel 747 movement.  That grade was replaced in 1955 with the shock-jeweled version called the 730.  I guess since the case design didn't have to change, the change was not significant enough to warrant "-B" classification like when models moved from the 14/0 movements to the 12/0 grades earlier in the 1950's.

Anyway, you're just as likely to find a Tracy with a 747 as you are a 730 movement.

I recently picked up a Tracy project watch.  It arrived in good overall shape but with a healthy dose of dirt and scratches.  The dial has an even golden appearance so I suspect this watch's original owner was a smoker.

One of the things that interested me in the watch is it is a Christmas watch, presented on 12-25-1955. The case back is in nice shape and will polish up well, I suspect.

Here's a better shot of the dial without the beat up crystal in the way.  I could probably clean the "patina" (if that's what it is) but I can already see the printing on the dial is compromised, especially around the lower section.  So I'll have to be very careful not to get it too clean and lose all the printing.  It's really a tough call whether to clean a dial or not - I think it's a judgement call.   I am personally not a fan of dials that look like this... it looks "sick" to me and I'd rather get it refinished to look new than to have a dial look pale green all the time.  Others might choose an original looking dirty dial over a bright and shiny refinish.  Fortunately for Hamilton collectors, it doesn't really matter.  Most people's "original dials" are probably old refinishes anyway - as that was often part of the regular service process back in the day.

The 747 is nice movement, even when it's filthy it still has a nice shine.  This one is part of the last run of 747 movements because there is no serial number on the train bridge.  This is probably a late 1954 or early 1955 Tracy, I bet.

I'll see if my magic dial cleaning solution will make an improvement in the dial's appearance.  If I goof it up, so be it.  I'll just get it redone.

A new glass crystal will make a nice improvement to the watch.  The original Tracy crystal is arched from top to bottom.  This one is the correct size but is flat.  A purist might object to the difference but to me the crystal is sort of like tires on a car - they need to fit properly and be good quality but they don't have to be original equipment.

The now-cleaned and reassembled movement goes onto the watch timer to see how it's running.  It's much brighter than the photo above.  It's amazing what a trip to the spa can do.  I think it's indicative of Hamilton's status as a premier brand that their movements are so nicely damascened.  No one but a watchmaker would have had a need to look at the movement yet every movement is a joy to behold.



Well, it might be nice to look at but what really counts is how well it runs and this one is running a little fast with a high beat error.  I could slow it down easily using the regulator but fist I will need to adjust the hairspring to lower the beat error - ideally below 1.0ms but I'll accept anything under 3.



Adjusting the beat error on this movement requires removing the balance from the balance cock (that's easy).  Reinstalling it can be the tricky part.  However, before I can reinstall it, I need to rotate the hairspring by rotating the brass collet in the center.  It's what holds the hairspring to the balance staff.  I also need to move it the right direction so the impulse jewel on the other side of the balance wheel lines up better with the pallet fork in the movement.  It's done by trial and error so you can see why I will settle for less than 3.0ms - as every trial is an opportunity for ruin.

Well... that's much better... good beat rate, good amplitude and a low beat error.  Mission accomplished.

Now that the movement is doing it's thing all that is left is to put the dial and hands back on and reinstall "the works" into the freshly polished case.  A new lizard strap completes the restoration.

The case back looks much better now that it's cleaned up.  It looks much better than the dial so maybe I'll get the dial redone so the entire watch will look this good.