1980s LL Bean Field Watch

 I have a couple of new models to eventually post that I haven't done before but I thought I'd share another previously documented model first.

This is a LL Bean Field Watch made by Hamilton during the 1980s.  It's essentially the same as the Khaki model and you'll find other branded examples by Orvis and Brookstone.  I like these watches and I've collected quite a few over the years.  They are based on the US military watches made at the same time.  

These watches are very popular - so popular, in fact, that Hamilton continues to make more modern versions of these watches, except they are a little larger today.

My latest project arrived with a broken crystal but is otherwise in good shape.  It will look a lot better with some fresh luminous paint on the hands.  The catalog image shows you what it would have looked like originally.

All of these field watches have the same model number - 921980.  Later Khakis from the 1990s have a different model number 9415A.  They are similar but actually have an even better movement inside.  

One thing interesting about this example is the case back is a little different than other LL Beans I've restored. 

The inside of the case back is also engraved differently than other models I've seen.  It says the same thing, just in different places.  What's really unusual is this movement doesn't say Hamilton or 649 on it.  It's the correct caliber, etc. so I don't think there's anything suspicious about it - it's just interesting. 

I'll align the hands so they are easier to remove.

West Germany united with East Germany in October, 1990 - so based on the back of the dial this watch is clearly earlier than that

Everything is completely disassembled and thoroughly cleaned.  The best part of this movement is you can mess up which screw goes where - they are all the same!  Everything is bright and shiny.  Now to put it back together with fresh lubrication.

As for a new crystal, this model features a reflector ring but it's parkerized like the case.  I'll use Stella WRA crystal in 28.5mm and reuse the original ring.

The trickiest part of reassembling the movement is to remember to reinstall the L-shaped lever used to "hack" or stop the watch when you set the time.  This little golden level engages the clutch and is moved over to touch the balance when the clutch is moved to the setting position.

The reassembled movement goes onto the timer and although the beat rate is great, the beat error is a little high.  It's so easy to adjust that trying to get it closer to 0.0 is a no brainer.

There... 0.3ms is more than acceptable.

As promised, the finished watch looks fantastic with a new crystal and freshly re-lumed hands.  This watch is definitely ready for some more wrist time.

1955 Automatic K-402

 The "worst" watch I've ever come across was found on a beach on the Pacific coast.  All that was left was the dial and I could tell from the markers that it was from a Norman.

I recently came across a contender.  It also took a swim in the Pacific about 30 years ago.  The owner kept the watch but never had it addressed.  That is, until recently when he sent it to me to see if I could salvage it.

The model is a 1955 K-402.  It was made through 1957,

Looking at my project watch, there's a halo of rust around the crystal as well as on the dial.  To be honest, I wasn't really sure what I was going to find inside.

I was able to get the case back off and revealed the rustiest 661 movement I've ever seen.  The rotor was seized and there's really nothing inside that appears serviceable.  This is really a less for all watch owners - if you get water inside, especially salt water, make sure you get the watch dried and serviced as soon as possible.

The first trick will be to get the movement out of the case.

Success!  I was able to get the movement out and I was also able to get the dial off without breaking the dial feet off the dial.

The movement is held inside the case by a couple of case clamps.  I should be able to reuse them.

The inside of the case back makes identifying the model very easy - K402 is stamped right inside the back.

From this point I will have to proceed with a donor movement.  The crown on the rusty stem is from a Wittnauer watch so I'll replace that too.

My donor 661 movement is completely disassembled, cleaned, and ready to be reassembled.  I was able to clean the dial fairly well but it's not perfect.  It will be a reminder to keep this watch away from the water in the future.

The reassembled movement is ticking away with good motion.  Now it's off to the timer to see how it sounds.

Not too shabby.  I will tweak the regulator and speed it up slightly.

A couple of very minor adjustments gets the beat rate running just slightly fast at 11 seconds fast per day.

The automatic framework and rotor are reattached and swinging freely - now it goes back into the case.

Well, I have to say that this watch turned out a lot better than I thought it was going to.  The dial cleaned up nicely and with the hands relumed along with a new crystal, it looks great, considering all that it's been through.

1901 940 Railroad

The Hamilton Watch Company got its start in 1892.  Pocket watches was its mission and especially watches certified to be used on railroads.  Overtime they would become the makes of "The Watch of Railroad Accuracy".  There is a surprising array of different models and many of the early examples are quite rare, after all, it was a new company and building a volume of inventory would take time.

Fast forward to 1901... nine short years later.  William McKinley was President of the United States until he was assassinated, and at 42, Teddy Roosevelt took over to became the youngest President in US history.

My project today was made at the same time and is a 21 jewel 18 size Hamilton 940 Railroad Watch.  The 940 is a great movement but it was really the entry level for railroad use.  There were several other higher quality movements made at that time.

A number of attributes separated the various calibers... number of adjustments, materials of construction, quality of nickel plating, you name it.  Some of the higher end calibers are too beautiful to hide behind a solid case.

The 940 is no slouch though and any Hamilton collector worth his salt probably should have a 940 in their collection - they are great timekeepers and fairly easy to find.

My project watch is well worn.  The case was warranted for 25 years which is a very heavy gold fill.  1901 pre-dates the jewelry standards of solid gold, gold fill, gold plate, etc. and instead cases were warranted against wear through for a period of time.  A 10 year case has less gold than a 20 year case, and that has less than a 25 year case.  A solid gold case might even say "permanent", as it would never wear through to a brass base.

My project watch case is very worn through - so this watch has a LOT of miles on it.  It arrived missing it's crystal.  Fortunately the hands are still present.  The enamel dial is a form of porcelain and it's not unusual for the enamel to show some cracks, especially near the dial feet locations.  This one doesn't look too bad... it's way better than I'll look when I reach 121 years old.

The case back is mostly brass... I think I can make out some sort of engraving but it has been lost to time.  The back and bezel thread on but they don't close all the way - hopefully that's just dirt and not a result of cross threading.  We'll see after it's all cleaned.

The movement tucked within is in nice shape.  It's nicely damascened.  Notice there is no caliber movement on the back.  It would be a few more years before Hamilton would add the caliber numbers to the engravings.  Based on the serial number this is a 940 movement.

With the dial and hands out of the way, you can see the workings of the lever action.  This is a lever set movement, meaning you have to slide the lever out to engage the parts needed to set the time.  With the lever pushed in, as shown, the watch is in the winding mode.  This way the watch can't accidentally pop into time setting mode - that was a railroad requirement.

With the barrel and train bridges removed, you can see the four wheels and pallet fork in their respective positions.  It's good to take a photo like this to remember which wheels go back in first.

Everything gets cleaned and dried.  The watch already has a white alloy spring inside so no need to change it.  Now it's time to put it back together with fresh oil in all the pivots.

The reassembled movement is noticeably brighter and shinier now.  It's ticking away with good motion.  Time to see what the timer thinks of it.

Originally when I saw the two lines so close together I thought, "Yes!  This is looking good." but then I saw the beat error of 9.0ms and realized the lines are actually really so far apart they are approaching each other from the wrong side.

Reducing the beat error requires removing the balance and adjusting the hairspring collet to better center the balance with the pallet fork.  It can take several attempts.

Getting warmer... down to 4.2ms.  I'd like to get it to as close to zero as possible but I'm usually okay with getting below 3.0ms.

Okay - down to 1.6ms... time to call it quits.  Now I can adjust the beat rate closer than 14 seconds fast per day.

Alright - pretty much right on the money now.

A new glass crystal completes the restoration of this great timepiece.  There's not much to do about the case so all I did was clean it in the ultrasonic.  Now the case back and bezel screw on nicely so it was just dirt holding things apart.

It's a nice looking movement.  Too bad I have to keep the cover on it.