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Thanks for visiting my vintage Hamilton watch blog. I like to restore US-made Hamilton wrist watches back to their original glory and share my experiences with other enthusiasts. Use the "Search" space below if you know what model you're looking for. Feel free to leave polite comments or questions in the spaces provided. Also check out my "watches for sale" on my Etsy site - the link is on the right, just below.

Sunday, January 8, 2017

1951 Brent

I noticed the other day that the odometer on HamiltonChronicles.com crossed over 1 million page views.


1 million is a cool milestone and exemplifies why I chose the name for the site.  Every watch I restore is a step on a journey and milestones along the way reassure me that progress is being made.  With each watch I post, I move that much closer toward eventually posting them all.  I'm more than halfway there, believe it not.

Taking yet another step on the journey, I recently landed a watch that I've pursued without success on many occasions.  It's a 1951 Brent.  The model was made for two years and in 1952 it became the "Brent B" since it got the newly introduced 19 jewel 753 movement.  The 1951 version used the 19 jewel 982 grade.


The Brent looks a lot like several other models from the period.  It has a classic Hamilton design and echoes models like the Cedric, Barry, Medford and quite a few others.  One of the things that make the Brent unique is it has a gabled, or faceted, crystal with a line that separates the top half from the bottom half.  It's an interesting look but it's also a bit distracting because it creates a prism-like effect as the light is bent when it passes through the varying angles.

The case is 14K gold filled, so the Brent has the 19 jewel movement... either 982 or 753, depending on the year.  The 10K gold filled models typically received the 17 jewel grades, the 980 or 752, respectively.

The sterling silver butler-finished dial has solid 18K yellow gold numerals and diamond-shaped markers.

For some reason the Brent always sells at a premium so it has taken me a while to land one.  They're not rare but they're not very common either.   However, just like a blind squirrel finds an acorn every now and again, I was able to score a Brent in need of a little TLC.


The crystal on my project watch is beat up and the crispness of the facet isn't pronounced.  You can see the line where the light bends on the photo above, crossing from the 8 to the 4.  In the photo below you can see how the crystal gables from top to bottom.


Without the crystal and bezel in the way, the dial appears to be original and in better-than-fair condition.  Its not perfect but it's definitely not in need of restoring.


The 982 is a high quality movement and highly damascened.   The 980's at this time were also engraved but the 982 and 982M especially so.  It's a lot of extra work considering the watch owner would probably never see it - but that's one of the many reasons why Hamilton was the premier American brand.


There's no problem identifying this model - it's stamped right into the case back.  If this had a 12/0 sized 753 movement it would say Brent-B.


I have found that 90% of the 14/0 movements I work on have set mainsprings.  This example is no exception, so I'll replace it with a fresh Dynavar white alloy spring.  With a fresh mainspring the watch will likely run 40 hours or more on a full wind.


If you're lucky, you can often just pop the new spring out of the holder and directly into the barrel.  I don't tend to be that lucky though so I just remove them and use my mainspring winder - I have much better success that way and can make sure the T on the end of the spring goes into the hole of the barrel.


I bought a new crystal for the watch and it's gabled... but it's gabled across the top to bottom and not side to side.  So even though it fits, it's not quite correct.  I'll install it anyway, since it's better than what the watch arrived with.


Everything is cleaned and dried... well, almost everything.  I couldn't find the escape wheel cap jewel for the train bridge.  It vanished somewhere during the "clean, rinse and rinse" process.

Losing a part now and then goes with the territory when it comes to vintage watches.  I know it's not just me, as it's not unusual to work on a movement that has one screw different than the others, or missing altogether, indicating that a past watchmaker lost a part along the way.


I'm a graduate of the watchmaking school of "hard knocks".  The tuition to the school is about 200 broken movements of varying grades.  Each broken movement is a lesson but I have an impressive stockpile of parts for when something like a cap jewel goes missing.

As luck would have it, I found the cap jewel.  It miraculously appeared with all the other parts - despite my searching for it.  As you can see below - it's very small and the screw that holds secures it is even smaller, a true marvel to behold and always makes me wonder, "how did they make such things"?  I'll bet one pound of material could make every 982 train bridge cap jewel screw ever made.


The movement is reassembled and purring like a kitten.  You can see the gold cap jewel in the train bridge below.  The cap jewel on both ends of the escape wheel is what makes a 19 jewel 982 different than a 17 jewel 980.


Nothing to complain about with this movement... no adjustments required.


A fresh lizard strap completes the restoration and the new crystal looks like it was meant to be there.  I may still try to find the correct style but I prefer this look over the prism-effect of the original design.


Just for fun, here's another shot from a different angle.  It's hard to see the effect of the gabled crystal but if you look really closely you can see the 2 in the 12 is really thick, there appears to be two second hands and there are two L's in Hamilton.


The good thing about crystals like this is they stand so proud of the bezel that the case is well-protected from wear.

Saturday, January 7, 2017

1959 Dexter or 1960 Romanesque T - you be the judge

I love a good mystery... don't you?

Well here's an interesting one.  I recently landed a project watch and assumed it was a 1959 Dexter.  This version of the Dexter is uncommon and was only produced for two years.


The Dexter has a 10K RGP bezel with a stainless steel back.  The dial has yellow embossed numerals, no markers.

My project watch looks just like the Dexter but it came a on different, but period-correct bracelet.   As you can see in the photo below, the bracelet has textured panels that echoes the interesting pattern of the textured dial of the watch.


After I completed my project and was putting the dial back on, I was struck with the thought that the dial really reminded me of a Romanesque dial - but those dials typically have black markers.  To my amazement, when I consulted the catalogs I realized there is a Romanesque T from 1960 that has the same bracelet!  However, the dial has dots at the odd number positions.

The Romanesque models were only made for a single year - 1960.


The back of my case is engraved with a name.  The watch and the bracelet are in excellent overall shape, just a little dirty.


Removing the bracelet reveals a pair of spring bars and they are exactly the style that would have originally been used.


Check out this textured dial.  This sort of dial is near impossible to get refinished properly as the crispness of the texture is easy to lose.


The 17 jewel 673 movement is in good shape but the dull finish is a clear sign it hasn't been to a watchmaker in a long time.  Oh, by the way, I didn't mention the movement isn't running, but nothing looks damaged.


The back of the dial shows no signs of being refinished.  I'm 99.9% sure this is an original dial.


Everything is cleaned and dried before reassembly.


A new crystal will go a long way toward improving the watch's appearance.


It's always a relief to see the balance start to move when it's reinstalled.  I've reached the point where I can tell by sight if the watch has an obvious issue but only the timer can say for sure.  This watch appears to be running great to my eye - so it's off to the timer.


Looks pretty good.  The amplitude of 224 is lower than I prefer.  I like to see amplitudes over 250 but 200 is my lower spec limit.  I suspect this watch's amplitude will increase as the freshly cleaned mainspring settles back into place.


A quick tweak of the regulator slows the watch down.  I bet I'll have to tweak it up a little, as freshly overhauled movements tend to slow a smidgen after they run a while.


All cleaned up with a fresh crystal and the bracelet reinstalled... this watch looks almost new.  The question now is... what model is it?


I happen to have a friend who has both models and here are photos of his watches.  What do you think?  Dexter or Romanesque T?




Sunday, January 1, 2017

1956 Sinclair

In my last post I discovered that in 1957 Hamilton changed the material for applied gold figures from solid 18K gold to solid 14K gold.  Models that spanned the 1956 - 57 transition had either 18K or 14K figures, depending on their year.

One of the models that fit that description is the 1956 Sinclair.  It was produced through 1959 as part of the "Medallion" line.  If it looks familiar, it might be because it's very similar to the 1955 Trent.  In fact, you could almost say the Trent was a "poor man's Sinclair".


Regardless of the year, the Sinclair came in a solid 14K gold case and a crocodile strap.  In 1957 the dial was outfitted with 14K gold numerals.

Inside the Sinclair you will find the 22 jewel 770 movement that was introduced in 1955.

My Sinclair project watch arrived in typical dresser-drawer condition.  It looked like all it really needed is a good cleaning.  The crystal appeared to be in decent shape but close observation revealed it had a lot of fine pitting and would need to be replaced.


The back of my watch is engraved with a presentation for 25 years of service to General Motors.


The Sinclair features "pearled dots" as some of the the hour markers.  Although they almost appear to be applied to the dial, they are actually recessed holes in the dial that are gold in color.


The inside of the case back makes identifying the model very easy.  You have to like solid gold cases - they never show any signs of verdigris.  If you see any greenish verdigris on a case, you know it's not solid gold.


This 770 movement looks pretty good but the sides of the movement make it clear that it hasn't been overhauled in recent years.  In fact, there are no watchmaker marks inside the case back, so it's possible that I'm the first person to look at this movement in 60 years.


Everything is disassembled and cleaned before being reassembled with fresh lubricants.


Somewhere there's an Elgin model with the same crystal dimensions as the Sinclair.  The bezel opening is square, 21.8mm x 21.8mm.


Glass crystals are best glued in place with UV glue and nothing cures UV glue better than good ol' sunshine.


Initially the movement was running about 45 seconds fast but a quick tweak of the regulator slowed it down nicely.  The beat error of 2.1ms is on the high side of acceptable but not so high that I want to risk goofing up the hairspring by adjusting it.


A new genuine alligator strap complements the reassembled Sinclair nicely and this watch looks almost new.  It's a little on the small side, as are a lot of vintage watches, and this could easily be worn by a woman by today's standards.


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