1955 Automatic K-352

Prior to the 1950's it wasn't unusual for a model to have several dial options.  For example, the 1937 Endicott had five different dial options over it's production run.  However, after 1950 the options seemed to become more limited.  Most models had only one choice and occasionally there were options for a black dialed version.

There are a few 1950's models where the dial design changed from year to year.  A good example of that phenomenon is the Rodney.  Another example is the 1955 Automatic K-352.  In 1955 it had a dial design with solid gold numerals and markers and luminous hands and dots.

Then, in 1956 the design was changed to markers at all the hours except 12.  Gone where the luminous dots and instead silhouette hands were added, where luminous paint was applied to the back of the hands and glowed onto the dial 24x7.  It must have been a very interesting effect.

So there are two varieties of the K-352 that you can find.  The model was produced into 1957 so there are probably more of the second dial generation than there are of the 1955 design.

The case of the K-352 consists of a solid 10K yellow gold bezel with a stainless steel back.  What makes the case design unique is it has faceted pattern around the crystal opening with points at all the hour positions.  It's a very subtle attribute and easy to overlook.  Inside you will find the 17 jewel 661 movement used in most 1950's Automatics.

I recently purchased a K-352 project watch and I was on the fence about buying it.  It had a fairly high price tag and was listed as non-running.  I suspected it had an issue and I was paying a steep price for someone else's problem but you don't see this model very often so I took the chance.

From the front it looks okay but there's a little bit of a gap on one side of the dial that's not there on the other side.

This watch was a service award for 25 years of service to National Lead Company.

The inside of the back shows extensive rubbing from the oscillating weight on the movement.

One issue that is easy to spot is the movement is missing a retaining clip and screw.  That explains the cockeyed appearance of the dial on the front.  It might also explain the rubbing rotor.  The rotor doesn't look too much worse for the wear though.

From the side you can see the faceted details on the bezel.  This crystal is the wrong style and way too tall.  A lower profile crystal will look much nicer.

Silhouette hands might look cool in the dark but they take their toll on the dial surface and this dial has been refinished at least once in its life.  They did a nice job though and even included the SWISS at the bottom.

Well, here's the reason for the watch not working.  The mainspring is broken at the first coil.

My go-to crystal choice for most round sweep second models without reflector rings is a GS PHD high dome crystal.  28.3mm should do the trick.

The freshly cleaned and oiled movement is ticking away with good motion.  Now to see that the timer thinks of it.

Not bad at all... amplitude and beat error are well within specs.

Before I put the rotor assembly back on I will make sure there are two movement clips securing the movement to the inside of the case.

My leap of faith turned out okay.  With two clips to secure the movement, the rotor swings freely and no longer rubs the case back.  My light tent makes the dial look more splotchy that it actually is.  This is actually a very nice looking watch now that it has a lower profile crystal and a fresh alligator strap.

1973 Auto Date Buccaneer (sort of)

Things got a bit wonky in the 1970s.  Different models came in the same case and uncatalogued variations of models are known to exist.

One example is the 1973 Auto Date Buccaneer and the 1973 Auto Date 5004.  It has two different dials and different bracelets but the same case is the exact same.

Both models feature the quick change Q/C II feature that allows you to set the day and the date at a stem position halfway between the winding and the setting positions.  This feature is still used by Hamilton watches today.

I recently received an example of one of these models that was in need of some TLC.  It looks like the Buccaneer based on the bracelet but the dial is all blue.  So maybe it's a totally different model?  Perhaps this is a European model.

This watch may look great but it doesn't wind.  In fact, you can't even get the stem into the winding position... turning the crown just sets the day and date.  So something is going on under the dial.

This is obviously a Hamilton bracelet.

The number on the back of the case is what identifies the model.  This number is 825002-3 and both the Buccaneer and the Auto Date 5004 have the same number.   The -3 means stainless steel.  There could also be a similar case with -4 meaning gold electroplate but that would be another model altogether.

Inside the case is a 17 jewel 825 movement based on an ETA 2789.

The case back is marked Hamilton Watch Co Swiss... not unusual for a 1970's model.

Part of the quick change functionality is derived by the helicoidal stem.  Notice how the square portion appears twisted.

The dial and hands are lumed with tritium, as indicated by the T-Swiss-T at the bottom of the dial.

The dial is held on by clips on the main plate.  You pivot them out to release the dial feet.

The first challenge is to figure out how to get the calendar and day wheels off.  Not really... the day wheel just lifts straight up and off.

The day wheel rotates on a ring that is held in the center of the main plate.  The lever on the right indexes the day wheel so it's centered in the window.

Well, here's the issue with the winding... the set lever spring is under the set lever and not up against it where it belongs.

Everything gets taken apart and cleaned.  There are a lot of parts to a day & date model - that's for sure.

The partially reassembled movement is back to ticking away with good motion.

Looks like it's running great... now to fine tune the beat error a bit.

There... it's running pretty much right on the money now.

This watch didn't need much on the outside other than a little cleaning up.  Now it's running as nicely as it looks.

1964 Sea Guard II

I've documented about 635 Hamilton models, maybe a little less if you exclude the pocket watches.  That's still well-past halfway towards finding them all... or at least 95% of them.  One of these days I need to make a list of the ones I have yet to find.

There are 47 "sea-somethings" or models with the word Sea in the beginning.  You could make it an even 50 if you add the three Sea-Lectric I, II and II-B but I've excluded the Electrics from my hunt.

One of the models I can now check off is the 1964 Sea Guard II.  It was produced through 1967.

The Sea Guard II is a rather simple-designed model with a monochromatic color scheme but I'm sure it looked sharp with it's original bracelet.  Like most Sea-somethings, it was positioned at the lower end of Hamiltons models in the "Fine Watches" collection featuring Swiss-made movements.

Tucked inside the case you'll find a Hamilton 688 manual winding movement also based on the Hamilton 61 caliber.

I recently came upon a Sea Guard II in need of some TLC but mainly it just needed a new crystal.   As you can see below, the radial-finished dial has four simple hour markers at the 12, 3, 6 and 9 positions and very slender hands to match.

The stainless steel case is a one-piece design that opens though the crystal.   The case back is unremarkable and consists of pretty much nothing but some trace DNA of a previous owner.  That will come off in the ultrasonic.

The movement looks great and other than a little rust on the female side of the stem, it looks brand new.  Of course, that doesn't mean that it doesn't need to be cleaned and oiled.

The 688 is basically a manual version of the 689 with the exception of all the automatic bits.  It's a very straightforward movement and ETA's manual winding movements today have very similar designs.

I'll take the opportunity to redo the luminous paint on the hands and the dial so that they will glow in the dark again.

The reassembled movement is ticking away on the timer.

On most watches I would be quite happy with this performance.  However the 688 is so easy to adjust that I'd feel guilty if I didn't lower the beat error a little.

There... nothing wrong with this performance.  It should slow down closer to 0 seconds fast per day once everything settles back into place.

A new crystal and a new strap were all that this watch needed to look like new again.  It's a very simple watch but it's very sleek and modern looking too - a perfect 1960's design.