The Fontainebleau came in a stainless steel case but you might find versions in gold electroplate... but they may be a different model altogether.
Most of the Fontainebleau line are big and chunky, a style that doesn't really appeal to me. However, I recently had an example sent to me that was in need of a little TLC... specifically it needed a stem and crown. It's not unusual to find project watches in such a state as two-piece stems are meant to separate and sometimes the crown gets inadvertently snagged on a something and comes off.
This model has an Odyssey-like case design and you can see the model number is 64047-3. This case opens by turning the outer ring counter clockwise 1/4 turn and then the ring can be removed and the case back lifted out.
Getting the ring to turn is VERY difficult and it's even more challenging since the outside of the case has a sharp bevel and can't be hand-held. Fortunately I can wedge it into my case holder so I don't bugger up the ring by slipping the opener tool.
Here you see the principle parts of the case design... the bezel, the crystal, the case back (with the movement and dial) and the retaining ring. The crystal is inserted into the bezel from behind and the flange on the crystal is sandwiched between the dial and the bezel. This specific example is missing the gasket that should be between the crystal and bezel.
Inside the case is a 21 jewel Hamilton caliber 64A - basically a 21 jewel version of the 17 jewel 694A. Notice the female end of the two-piece stem installed in the movement. That means the crown-side needs the male side.
Here's a photo of a replacement stem and an uncut stem. Replacing crowns is surprisingly difficult. You need to have the correct outer diameter, style, if it's waterproof the correct opening, perhaps a tube, etc. etc. etc.
The challenge of installing a new stem and crown, once you have a crown, is to cut the stem long enough that the crown fits just right... too long and it will stick out, too short and you have to start over again. Check out the challenge below... how long should the stem be?
I find the best approach is to purposefully cut the stem a little long and then recut it over and over until it's just right.
I use a Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel and I hold the stem with a pin-vise.
I'd say it's still a couple of mm too long.
Once I think I'm close I can install the movement, insert the stem, align the male side with the female side and pop the two together to see how it fits.
Well, it turns out I had to cut it about as far as possible in order to get it short enough to fit properly. The long tube on the crown will help support the stem and crown in the stem tube of the case.
With a proper-fitting crown and nice alligator strap, this Fontainebleau is now ready for wrist time!
I've got an old Hamilton I'm trying to find more about. I've looked through all the catalogue years and all of your pictures and haven't found anything similar. Could you point me in the right direction? Or could I possibly email you a picture?ReplyDelete
Sure, you can send me a photo through my Etsy shop or by clicking the link above my photo in the upper right.Delete
Wow! It came out great Dan, I'm wearing it today. I sincerely doubt I could've pulled off the stem replacement. So far it's gotten lots of compliments.ReplyDelete
So since the year is 1968, is this a U.S. model?
Happy Easter to you too. Yes, it's a US model but the answer to that question is really "it depends". All Hamilton automatics feature Swiss-made movements. So there are lots of pre-1970 models that were assembled in Lancaster but feature Swiss ebauches.Delete
I am also in search for a crown and stem for this Hamilton watch. Can you tell me what kind of crown you used for this watch? (Size,type,reference etc.). ThanksReplyDelete
I don't recall, other than a generic white waterproof tap 10 long post crown. I got lucky with the long post not being too long.Delete
I am an amateur repair of my watches. I got Hamilton Fontainebleau 66003-4 with a double date. Inch. AS 1866. I am looking for repair instructions because I have dismantled the mechanism and I have a problem with the date
I have one spring left from one calendar latch but I don't know which one. I usually take a photo but I didn't do it with euphoria :-)ReplyDelete
You probably should have taken pictures during your disassembly to refer to during reassembly. I'm afraid I don't have repair instructions. You can try to refer to this post, but it may be a different movement . http://www.hamiltonchronicles.com/2017/08/1975-auto-date-chadwick.htmlDelete
Dan...I just ordered this watch from ebay...wondering if I can bug you for lug size...list at 19mm on ebay, is that correct...it is on original bracelet and would like to do a similar leather as you have pictured.ReplyDelete
I don’t recall... I guess you’ll have to wait and see.Delete
Managed to snag myself a good example, but with a “floppy” minute hand.....ReplyDelete
Dismantled and sorted the floppy hand.....
This one has the gasket that yours was missing.....
Reassembly is INCREDIBLY difficult!!
I continue to try....
Now I understand why the gasket was gone on yours!! Without that it is SO much easier - but inherently NOT waterproof.
Love your articles!!! SO helpful.
Thanks, and keep up the great work
Hi Handy Dan!.ReplyDelete
I own an identical Hamilton Fointainebleau. My father bought it in 1971 and he gave me the watch as a present some years after with box and papers, wich I keep. Thirty years ago I carry up the watch for service, but the watchmaker loss the gasket between the crystal and the bezel, so I improvisé a gasket with a plastic paper. The watch is almost new and give good time. How can I get the gasket?. Thanks!. Jorge.
Beats me... although a small o-ring gasket will probably do the trickDelete