Welcome


Greetings!

Thanks for visiting my vintage Hamilton watch blog. I like to restore US-made Hamilton wrist watches back to their original glory and share my experiences with other enthusiasts. Use the "Search" space below if you know what model you're looking for. Feel free to leave polite comments or questions in the spaces provided. Also check out my "watches for sale" on my Etsy site - the link is on the right, just below.

Saturday, November 9, 2013

1962 Gary - Beat Error Adjustment

I learned something new this week.  I bought what I thought was one model and it turns out it's another model that is virtually identical to the one I thought it was.  Sound confusing?  It was.

There are a handful of models that were made in different years but share common features.  For example, there's the 1936 Morley and the 1941 Douglas - they share the same case but have different dials.  Then there's the 1939 Bowman and the 1940 Emerson - they share the same dials and crystals but the case features are different.

My most recent example is a 1962 Gary.  It was made through 1967 and in 1968 Hamilton introduced the Thinline 6500.

 photo ScreenShot2013-11-09at11551PM_zpse0e73dc9.png    photo ScreenShot2013-11-09at11704PM_zps494ae53e.png

Both models were made in yellow rolled gold plate cases as well as white rolled gold plate cases.  Both cases have stainless steel backs. The only thing that really seems to differentiate the models is the fine details of the bracelet - and I mean really fine details - as you can see the two catalog images are very close to each other.  The Thinline 6500 adds additional texture to the flat areas of the case and bracelet.  If you had them side by side in person you would also see the hour markers are slightly different and the hands on the Thinline are slightly smaller.  So they are definitely different models.

To confuse things even further, there's also a diamond-dial version in white rolled gold case called the Lord Lancaster A - but at least the diamond dial makes it easy to identify.  It also came on a black suede strap.

 photo ScreenShot2013-11-09at11813PM_zps19f634de.png

Tucked inside the 1962 Gary is a Hamilton 686 Swiss-made movement.  I suspect (so I could be wrong) that the Thinline 6500 has a similar Hamilton 639 movement.

So as I said at the start, I learned something new this week because I started off by buying what I thought was a Thinline 6500.  It was a grungy-looking watch and missing it's crown.  The crystal was a bit beat up too.  A little TLC would go a long way toward improving this watch.

 photo Gary01_zpscef3ed86.jpg

The 17 jewel 686 movement is based on the A. Schild (AS) 1200 - which you can still buy new today.  It was a little dirty but otherwise in fine condition.

 photo Gary02_zps2391bef9.jpg

Thinking I had a Thinline 6500, I located the replacement crystal.  So far so good.

 photo Gary03_zps4d1532b4.jpg

Then, thanks to the cumulative knowledge of my fellow Hamilton collectors, I learned that the 1962 Gary is pretty darned similar to the Thinline 6500.  In fact, so similar that I had misidentified my project watch.

If you look really closely at the photo below, there's a little groove inside the crystal ledge on the bezel in the center at the top and bottom.

 photo Gary04_zps1a01c427.jpg

If you compare that to the GS crystal for a Gary (and Lord Lancaster A) it actually comes with a corresponding portion to snap into that ledge.

 photo 7211ad1f-d652-4028-85aa-84cfd044fbcf_zps6fc1f9db.jpg

If you look closely at the packaging, the two crystals differ by 1-tenth of a millimeter in dimensions.  My Thinline 6500 crystal fit the Gary bezel with no problems at all.

Well, everything gets disassembled and thoroughly cleaned.  Once it's all dry it goes back together with lubrication in all the critical areas.

 photo Gary05_zpsc0518791.jpg

One the timer, the now-running movement is keeping decent time, but notice the "beat error" of 7.5ms. Beat error is basically how far the balance swings to one side versus the other.  The two lines you see on the left of the screen below represent the "tick and the tock" of the balance swinging and the gap between them is the beat error.  Ideally you want the two lines to be horizontal and close together.

You can see below the two lines are separated and trending upward slightly - that means it's running slightly fast (18 seconds per day) and has a beat error of 7.5.  The 256 is the degrees of amplitude the balance swings - over 200 is a good goal.  The 18,000 is the "beat rate" and represents 18,000 beats in one hour.  Each tick is a beat - so if you've ever counted "one mississippi, two mississippi"- you've counted with a 5 beat per second rate, which is the same as 18,000 beats per hour.

 photo Gary06_zpse787dee5.jpg

By now you're probably thinking… "That's pretty cool, I didn't know that.  But why do I care about the beat error?"

Good question.  Obviously if it's too high the watch won't run well.  However, the main reason (in my opinion) is a watch with too high a beat error will stop sooner than a watch with a low beat error.  A high beat error means the balance's impulse jewel isn't centered in the pallet fork so at rest, the balance wants to rest off to one side or the other.  Since the pallet fork is what delivers the energy to the impulse jewel, it needs to supply more energy to get the balance to swing to the side that is off center.  Ideally the pallet fork would supply the same energy to both sides - which would allow the watch to run until all of the energy is expended.

Adjusting for beat error means moving the impulse jewel so that it's centered with the pallet fork.  The balance would swing freely if it were not attached at the stud end of the hair spring.  To move the position of the impulse pin, you need to move it relative to the position of the hairspring stud.

I'm willing to bet that I've lost you at this point - so watch this video and you'll catch up with me.


Too further explain adjusting for beat error, I'll use you as the balance wheel.  Let's pretend your right hand is the impulse jewel and your left hand is the hairspring stud.  Put your right arm straight out to the right and your left arm straight out to the left.  You should look like a traffic cop stopping traffic in both directions.  Let's say that you are now in "equilibrium" and comfortable at rest in this position.

Now, let's say the center of the pallet fork is the computer screen you're looking at.  Is your right hand pointing to the computer screen?  No, probably not - it's likely pointing off to the right somewhere.  That means that you've got a large beat error.

To adjust it, you need to move your right arm (without moving your left arm) to the left so that your hand is pointing to the screen.   Moving your right arm to the left would be moving against the hairspring… it would want you to get back to equilibrium.  Since your left arm is fixed to the left, you'd need to adjust the other end of the hairspring, called the "collet", where it attaches to the balance staff, so that at equilibrium, your right hand is pointing to the screen and your left arm is straight off to the left.  That's adjusting for the beat error on most Hamilton movements.

It's a pain.

The good news is on the 686, the hairspring stud is moveable - that means you can move your left hand  and essentially rotate your entire body so, with your arms straight out to the sides, you can move your right hand to the left by moving your left hand to the left… staying in equilibrium the entire time.

In the shot below, the red arrow is pointing to the hair spring stud.  It can be moved left or right.  The blue arrow is pointing to the regulator, which effectively lengthens or shortens the hairspring to make the watch run slower or faster.  By moving the hairspring stud, I can adjust the watch's beat error.

 photo Gary10_zpsd18bcdb2.jpg

In this shot, I've adjusted it to 0.3ms…  I'd be happy with that on any other watch.

 photo Gary07_zps7077bd9e.jpg

But a little more tweaking and I can get it down to zero.  It doesn't get better than that.  My two lines have converged to a single line and tweaking the regulator slows it to 9 seconds fast per day.  I like to leave watches running a little fast as they will slow slightly as the mainspring lets out.

 photo Gary08_zps412502ce.jpg

And here's the finished product all cleaned up with a new crystal and Hamilton crown.  The dial shows it's age with a few spots but there's not much to do about that other than getting it redone and it's not that bad.

 photo Gary09_zps9314aac8.jpg

On the wrist with normal lighting, the watch looks much better.

Gary photo 1a368dd5-8cf4-4139-a5e5-c9e8bb8d8de7_zps5d555120.jpg

4 comments:

  1. I have a question. From what I understand, Hamilton watches were made in the US until 1969. But the 686 movement in my 1962 Gary is Swiss made. I thought maybe the watch was made in the US with Swiss parts, but then I've seen Hamilton movements that have "US Made" (or something like that) on them. Can you shed some light on this? Great site BTW! - GonzoInSA@gmail.com

    ReplyDelete
  2. Yes, you're right that Hamilton made movements in Lancaster, PA through 1969. However, they also assembled watches with movements they purchased from various Swiss manufactures. The Swiss movements allowed them to compete at lower price points with other brands like Elgin, Waltham, Benrus, etc.

    In fact, in the mid 1960's Hamilton purchased the Swiss maker, Buren and used a lot of Buren movements like the micro-rotors. After 1969 Hamilton eventually moved manufacturing to Buren's Swiss facilities.

    Hamilton also exported watches to the European market so they would say "Made in USA" or words to that effect too.

    ReplyDelete
  3. I have this exact same watch. My mother gave it to my dad in 1963 for Christmas. He passed in 79. My mother resized the band removing part of the expansion band. It now doesn't fit my wrist. Any idea where I could locate a new original vintage band? I currently have a full expansion band but it isn't the same. Or any idea of how to add to the original expansion band as I still have it. Local jewelers weren't helpful and when I called Hamilton, they can't find parts for vintage watches.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. If links were removed then they can be added back in. You can look at the back of the bracelet to see who made it (Kreisler, JB Champion, etc.). You might find the same or similar link design on another bracelet, even if the end stye is different. You can look on eBay for bracelets without watches.

      Delete